10 Cool Adventures in Death Valley National Park
While the name “Death Valley” may evoke images of a barren and dead landscape, the park actually brims with life! True, Death Valley absolutely is one of the hottest and driest places on earth. The park is a desert valley in the truest sense of the word, defined by record-high temperatures and little to no rainfall. But despite those extremities, Death Valley boasts life and biodiversity: From Hot Springs and Sand Dunes to salt flats, canyons, and mountain peaks! Bring your sunhat, plenty of water, and your sense of adventure: Death Valley awaits you.
How to visit Death Valley
Location
Death Valley lies in Eastern California, close to neighboring Nevada. Bordering the Mojave Desert and the Great Desert Basin, it doesn’t get more desert than Death Valley. The valley is closed in by the Amargosa Range on the East and the Panamint Range on the West. In geology, this is called a graben.
The park is only a two-hour drive away from Las Vegas, something many tourists and roadtrippers take advantage of.
“The Death Valley…”
Death Valley owes its ominous name to a tragic pioneer’s tale: According to legend, a group of 49’ers (settlers driven by the California Gold Rush in 1849) wanting to take a shortcut, got stuck and lost in the valley. Suffering from the heat, exhaustion, and lack of water, the group found themselves in a precarious situation. One of them eventually perished, and his famous last words were: “Goodbye Death Valley…” - Et voila!
At first glance, you may think of the park as a desolate place. True, there are no lush forests, raging rivers, or green fields of grass. But take a closer look and see: Death Valley is alive… be it in a slightly unusual way. Usually, one would visit a National Park in summertime or springtime, during the day. But Death Valley requires a different approach: The wildlife and the starry sky come alive during the night! Moreover, the best season to visit this park is literally anytime but summer.
Interesting Facts & Figures
Death Valley is the 5th largest National Park in the US, topped only by 4 Alaskan parks. With over 3 million acres, visitors have to drive pretty long distances from one point to another. So, fill up your tank before you go and crank up the AC, because Death Valley happens to be the driest and hottest place in North America! The park has witnessed many record-high temperatures over the years, recording Earth’s hottest air temperature ever (134 F or 56.7 C!) in 1913.
We loved having a paper map of the area for hikes and drives.
PS: There is a gas station in Death Valley, but our advice is to get gas outside the park. The station is pretty pricey, especially considering the recent increase in gas prices. As of March 2022, prices in Death Valley were $8.75/gallon. Yikes.
Best time to visit Death Valley?
Death Valley temps in October: Very bearable.
Without question, the best time to visit Death Valley National Park is anytime but summertime. During the summer months, the temps are between 110 - 120 F… Doesn’t sound very appealing, does it? December turns out to be the valley’s coldest month, which is why many people visit in fall and winter. We spent 5 days in Death Valley last October. It was not too crowdy and daytime temps were around 80-85F.
10 Cool Adventures in Death Valley
1. Explore Dante’s View
Dante’s View by sunset.
This is a real classic. Dante’s View can easily be reached by car, which makes it a popular spot. The parking lot might be crowded with cars and people, especially during sunrise and sunset hours. But you can escape the crowds easily by following a small social trail, going up towards Mount Perry (5,716 ft). A short climb soon takes you to a more private overlook of the valley, where you can enjoy the sunset all by yourself.
2. Spot Pup Fish in Salt Creek
Desert fish, you say? That’s right. It sounds paradoxical, but it’s true: Cottonball Marsh and Salt Creek are the only places on earth where you find the Death Valley Pup Fish! As you can imagine, Death Valley is an extremely harsh environment, especially for these endangered small fish. As desert dwellers, they reside in the seasonal stream that makes up Salt Creek. When the river runs dry, they have no choice but to reside in small pools. Besides drought, they also put up with salt water, heavy floodings, and drastic temperature swings.
Why the name “pupfish”? Because of their playfulness and liveliness in their breeding season. These fish are not only hardy and tough but also playful and randy! Hell yeah. All things considered; Death Valley Pupfish are the coolest! Go and say hi to them.
3. From the lows of Badwater Basin…
When it comes to breaking records, Death Valley National Park scores significantly high: It is recognized as the driest, hottest, and lowest place in North America! Large parts of the park lie below sea level, yet the park lies 250 miles away from any major body of water. The absolute lowest point of elevation is Badwater Basin: 282 feet below sea level. Pretty cool!
The salt flats truly are a crazy sight. The little rain that falls, evaporates quickly and the familiar salt crust remains. That is why the flats contain mostly table salt plus some calcite, gypsum, and borax.
Walking on the salt flats in Badwater Basin.
As you can well imagine, the water is pretty salty here. Not ideal for human consumption, but the Badwater snail and Pickleweed plant seem to like it!
The park allows you to take a walk in the salt flats. Take a moment to look above you: There towers Telescope Peak in all its glory, over two miles from where you stand. Pretty impressive.
4. …to the highest peak in the park!
The peak, with telescope and summit register.
That’s right: With its 11,043 ft, Telescope Peak is the highest peak in the park! Where earlier you walked below sea level, now it is time to climb all the way up. The Panamint Range, with Telescope Peak as its crown jewel, proudly overlooks Death Valley. From the parking lot near Mahogany Flat Campground, the hike is a 14 miles roundtrip and takes about 7 hours to complete.
Hugging an ancient Bristlecone Pine Tree.
PS: On the top of the mountain awaits a nice surprise… Yep, it is a telescope! Besides that, there is a summit register, where you can proudly record your name. It is always fun to read some of the summit messages of previous hikers.
Snowy side of Telescope Peak during sunset hours.
It is important to take water and warm clothes with you on the trek. There are not many water sources in the park, and it can cool down quite a bit up there. We even encountered some snow patches in mid-October!
5. Ubehebe Crater
As a result of volcanic steam explosions, the Ubehebe Craters were formed. The largest one, Ubehebe Crater, is half a mile wide and 777 feet deep. The crater is thought to be some thousand years old.
It is definitely worth following one of the three hiking trails. We followed the trail that circumnavigated the crater and admired the depth and layers from different points of view. Basalt is the main rock type of this crater.
The origins of the name Ubehebe are somewhat confusing: According to NPS, Ubehebe was the Paiute name given to the Ubehebe Peak, 24 miles away from the crater. The crater itself is actually known to the Timbisha Shoshone tribe as “Tem-pin-tta-Wo’sah”.
6. Hiking Golden Canyon & Gower Gulch
Otherwordly landscapes.
Another hike we really enjoyed was the Golden Canyon & Gower Gulch loop. A total of 4.3 miles, this route takes you gradually uphill to Golden Canyon, gives you a stunning overlook on the canyon and takes you back down Gower Gulch to the parking lot. You can add small detours, such as Red Cathedral and The Badlands loop. The hike itself is pretty moderate, but the heat makes it quite strenuous.
7. Life on Mars: Stargazing
Visiting Death Valley is a special experience on many levels. After a long day of extreme heat, you’ll be happy to watch the sun go down. Once the stars and the moon appear, you can feast your eyes on the beautiful night sky. That is because Death Valley happens to be one of the darkest places in the US! Although light pollution from nearby megacities Las Vegas and Los Angeles has increased tremendously, Death Valley remains an excellent place for some stargazing.
The park was even recognized as International Dark Sky Park. Rightly so, as the park takes many measures to protect the darkness at night. That is why you can easily spot the Milky Way and many other celestial objects at night. Can you spot the Big Dipper?
Experiencing Death Valley at night is something you cannot miss. Take your time, so your eyes can fully adjust to the darkness. We visited during the full moon, and it lit up the whole landscape - pretty special. It was ideal for a nightly stroll but less convenient for stargazing. We had to wait until the moon disappeared into the mountain range.
PS: Don’t forgot to listen for wildlife! During the nighttime, we were lucky to witness kit foxes, jackrabbits, coyotes, and bats.
8. Beatty & the Burrows
Beatty is a small town in Nevada, often called “The Gateway to Death Valley”. Only 7 miles from the park’s entrance, this charming town lies amidst ghost towns, mining districts and historical artifacts. A remarkable remnant of the mining era is Beatty’s wild burros! Descendants from the burros who hauled supplies for mining camps, the burros were released, (or left behind) when the miners left the area. But burros are strong, adaptable animals who do well in the heat.
As of recent, there are about 800 burros in the Beatty area. Some find them a nuisance, as they knock over trash cans and cause traffic jams, but the tourists sure love them. Welcome to the Wild West!
9. Never too hot for Hot Springs
Yes, there are hot springs in Death Valley! The Saline Hot Springs are located in the remote Saline Valley area, northwest of the park. In total, there are 3 hot springs, ranging from 95 to 107 degrees. Their inaccessibility and remoteness are part of their allure.
Just like other highlights in Death Valley, it is not that easy getting there. You have to follow a 2-hour dirt road and would need a high clearance vehicle, preferably a 4x4. But with a tank full of gas and some dedication, you will have the opportunity to soak in these beautiful and remote hot springs. Clothing optional.
When we visited Death Valley in 2021, we didn’t want to make the long trip because of high gas prices… and we regret that decision now, due to even higher gas prices!
10. Offroad Adventures
Last but not least: Death Valley is a true offroad paradise. We were lucky to have rented a Toyota 4Runner with 4WD or we would have missed out! There is the famous Hell’s Gate and of course Titus Canyon, a truly epic backcountry drive that resembles a slot canyon.
Thanks for reading!
Stories of the Oregon Coast Trail
Seaside Explorations
Oregon’s coast has so much beauty to offer. Visitors and residents gather here for excellent birdwatching, surfing, and relaxation. In September 2021, due to the California wildfires on the PCT, we headed down to the Oregon coast to escape the smoke… and take a walk! Winds in our hair, sand between our toes - and basically everywhere, because that’s what sand does - and camping on the beach: Here’s our story of the Oregon Coast Trail and tips to get you started.
What is the Oregon Coast Trail?
Maybe you have heard of California’s Lost Coast Trail or Washington’s North Coast Trail in Olympic National Park. Well, Oregon takes it one step further: The Oregon Coast Trail is a long-distance walk that entails the entire coastline of Oregon. The hike can be divided into 10 sections and the total distance is somewhere between 400 - 425 miles. In total, it takes about 1 month to complete this trek. Yep, this trail is something different.
Meaning…?
The Oregon Coast Trail isn’t just about following a trail: You walk close to the Pacific Ocean and its humid forests, bays, inlets, and rivers. So be prepared to get your feet wet! Walking through low waters, swimming, or hitching a boat ride - it’s all part of the game. Thumbs up! In our experience, most boaters and fishers are very helpful and will gladly help you over the water.
Side note:
This trail is not for the passionate wilderness purists. A lot of the trail is paved. You often end up road walking. In some sections, you cannot avoid US 101. This is not only boring but pretty dangerous too. The highway does not have much of a shoulder and we mostly ended up hitchhiking. Usually, it is only a couple of miles.
Side Note #2:
Oregon is currently busy tackling this problem! (Read about it here)
What is the Character of the Trail?
Life is Better at the Beach!
About half of the Oregon Coast Trail is beach. Hiking on sand… is pretty darn tough! Trekking poles may help on patches of wet sand but are pretty much useless. But walking the beaches can be a very relaxing experience. A fresh sea breeze, taking a nap in the dunes, looking at pretty shells… Can you feel your stress levels lowering yet?
Forest Trails and Dirt Roads
The Oregon Coast Trail passes by several incredible nature reserves and parks. Think of Ecola State Park, Fort Stevens State Park, and Cape Meares. These forest trails are relatively easy to moderate. They go up and down frequently, but the elevation gain is minimal. The forested sections take up about a quarter of the trek.
Ecola State Park
One of the absolute highlights is Ecola State Park, a fairylike forest full of ferns and towering trees. This is your chance to sleep in one of the majestic wooden cabins in the middle of the woods. There is even a restroom and picnic place. All in all, 10/10 - would sleep again!
One of the wooden cabins in Ecola State Park.
And some road walking
As previously mentioned, about a quarter of the Oregon Coast Trail involves road walking. If you’re lucky, the road takes you through town and you can score some ice cream. If not, you end up on the narrow 101 Highway.
Walking the line on a quiet backroad.
PS: The southbound shoulder is the wider one! We either walked that shoulder or hitchhiked.
Impressions of Nature Nearby the Sea
We bought a folding pocket guide for coastal birds so we could identify seagulls, snowy plovers and other seabirds. The Oregon coast is also the home of seals and sea lions - keep your eyes peeled and your ears wide open.
Left: Sea lions at the docks in Astoria. / Right: My first time spotting sea stars.
Furthermore, you find many more treasures washed ashore: Lost jellyfish, mussel beds, seaweeds of all sizes, and the most beautiful shells. Pure maritime magic.
Big chance that the paths will be muddy, wet, or at least moist. The Oregon Coast gets its fair share of rain. The humid conditions, however, create the most beautiful green forests, ferns, and breaking clouds. Life flourishes due to having the ocean nearby.
Resupply and other food options
The Oregon Coast Trail is no doubt a cultural experience: You pass one coastal town after another. From Oceanside to Seaside to Rockaway Beach: Town names are unmistakably associated with the sea.
Dine and wine at the OCT in one of the campgrounds.
That means you don’t have to pack much food. Along the road, there are plenty of shops, restaurants, and fisheries. We highly recommend visiting the latter: Not only will you support local businesses, but you taste seafood fresh from the ocean!
After eating cooked shells, crab, mussels, or shrimps, you throw the scales straight back into the sea. Part of the experience!
Tillamook is one of the towns that you might pass along the way. The famous cheese factory can be visited and we heard stories of free cheese samples and ice cream… Just saying!
What about potable water?
Ryan is filtering water with his Sawyer Squeeze.
Drinking from naturally-flowing water sources along the OCT is somewhat complicated. Some are mixed with salt water, others are possibly contained with oily run-off from the nearby Highway. So choose your water sources with care and keep an eye out for water spigots on campgrounds and town parks.
Lunchtime at the Pelican Brewery! No peanut butter wraps on this trail..
A safer option? Drink beer! Oregon is well-known for its good beer and the coastal towns are host to several microbreweries. We especially loved Pelican Brewery with its variety of IPAs and a good selection of food. Yum.
Is the Oregon Coast Trail easy to navigate?
You would think so, right? But nothing could be further from the truth. Sometimes, you come across private land, dangerous cliffs or the beach simply ends. This trail requires some guessing and checking. Online GPX-files and guidebooks can help you figure out the detours.
Don’t count on trail markers, as they are rather rare.
Best season to walk the OCT?
The trail’s conditions are pretty good throughout the summer months. It is possible, however, to hike the OCT in late spring (May - June) or early fall (September - October). It is important to keep river fords and tide cycles into account and plan your hike accordingly.
We hiked large parts of the trail in early September and had a real good time. The weather was gentle and there were few tourists. But whenever you decide to go, be prepared for rain and wind.
Any tip or recommendations?
Don’t forget to visit the lighthouses along the OCT! We particularly loved Cape Meares lighthouse and its surroundings.
Left: Cape Meares lighthouse / Right: The infamously cool Octopus Tree.
As mentioned before: Tide charts all the way! You will need them to know when to ford rivers or cross beaches. During high tide, we sometimes had to wait it out until the next day. Please take this seriously: Riptides and sneaker waves can easily knock you off your feet.
High tide is setting in: We just made the beach crossing in time!
What else? Be flexible. You never know where the next day will bring you - especially if you’re hiking this trail. And most of all: Enjoy your time out there. Take it one step at a time. Research has shown that the sea improves your well-being. Enjoy the ocean breeze!
For the Twilight fans!
The OCT crosses one of the Twilight filming locations! On Indian Beach, just next to Ecola State Park, Jacob told Bella about the Quileute’s legends of “the cold ones” in the first movie. Team Jacob!
Thanks for following our journey!
Petrified Forest National Park: Tips for First Time Visitors
During our road trip from Oregon to Pennsylvania, we visited Petrified Forest National Park on an early November morning. We had only a little time to visit Petrified Forest and did not know what to expect. Well, it turned out a pleasant surprise! The vastness of the landscape and the history of the region make this national park unique.
Petrified Forest might be not as vast or monumental as some of the other national parks, but it is definitely worth visiting. You are less likely to encounter the masses and will probably have a quieter experience. We loved having the park pretty much to ourselves!
What is Petrified Forest about?
Petrified Forest National Park is best known for its petrified wood - no surprise there! :) These remnants of prehistoric forests are scattered across the park. Over time, the logs crystallized into quartz, creating a beautiful rainbow effect.
The pieces of petrified wood show a wide range of colors and composition.
Fun fact: Thinking of taking one of these beauties home with you? Better think twice! First of all, it is forbidden to remove petrified wood from the park. Secondly, many visitors who did take a piece of petrified wood, have returned it ASAP! Why? Because they believed they were cursed with bad luck. The park has received piles of letters from "cursed" visitors, describing their misfortunes and expressing guilt about the theft. Ye be warned ... ☠️
As everywhere else: Leave no Trace ànd leave what you find.
If you’re looking for a souvenir, you can simply buy a piece of petrified wood in both visitor centres. The souvenirs are retrieved from private land, so less chance of being cursed!
Some highlights of the park
If you, like me, get all excited about old inscriptions, Newspaper Rock is definitely worth the stop! The name says it all: Rocks filled with over 600 petroglyphs. The Navajo name is Tse’ Hane, meaning “rock that tells a story”. The designs, carved by ancestral Puebloan people, include solar calendars, animals, and human-like creatures.
So hop out of your car and take a look! There is an overlook from where you can peer through spotting scopes and observe the petroglyphs in detail.
Some petroglyphs of strange objects and animals.
Crystal Forest is an excellent stop if you want to take a closer look at the petrified logs. It is a short 0.8 mile-loop that brings you right to the ancient logs.
The scenic drive through the park takes you past The Tepees. You cannot miss these miniature mountains! The crazy palette of colors makes them look otherworldly.
Desert pyramids in Petrified Forest.
The Painted Desert Inn is a fantastic piece of architecture! The building, built in Pueblo Revival style, blends in perfectly with its surroundings. The smooth surfaces and pink walls merge with the desert landscape. Built in the 1920s, it was very popular with Route 66 travellers. Nowadays the Inn functions as a museum and exhibition space.
The Painted Desert Inn, a beautifully rose-colored house.
Unfortunately, due to the return deadline for our rental car, we had no time to visit Agate House, Giant Logs Trail, and other points of interest.
Hiking in Petrified Forest
Given the fact that Petrified Forest Nation Park is relatively small, most hiking trails are 0.5 - 2 miles long. Ideal for day hikes! If you’re looking for more solitude, there are some longer backcountry hikes. The park has a closing time, however, so make sure that you keep track of time. ⏰
Due to a lack of time, we were unable to explore Devil’s Playground. This 7 - 8 mile loop hike looks simply amazing, though! The trek takes you to isolated hoodoos, boulders, and pieces of petrified wood. There is no designated trail, plus you need to obtain a free permit at the visitor center. Definitely on my wishlist!
Camping?
Good news: The park offers a backpacking wilderness permit completely free of cost! You can easily obtain the permit from either visitor center. There is, however, no RV or car camping.
Location?
Petrified Forest National Park lies in northeastern Arizona, close to the New Mexico border. The park has two entrances, one in the north and the other in the south. Entering the park from the north takes you over the Interstate 40 and, after 28 miles, you reach the south entrance (US-180). This means you can easily visit Petrified Forest in one day.
Image: nps.gov (National Park Service)
How to get by?
There is no shuttle service or public transport. In other words, you are on your own. Hurray, freedom!
Most visitors drive the 28 miles through the park. Bicycles, E-bikes, and motorcycles are allowed as well. More interestingly, Petrified Forest has two wilderness areas where backcountry hiking only is allowed. There are no designated trails there, so you can wander at free will! To be continued…