Pat’Alaska, Part 4: Riding the Carretera Austral (South to North)
We started our bikepacking journey in Ushuaia and have traveled the island of Tierra del Fuego via the “Fin Del Mundo” route. Now, we are in the heart of Chilean Patagonia and follow the famous Carretera Austral…
Thanks for reading along! You can support our journey by becoming a Patreon member and access live updates, stories and early video-releases — and maybe even a postcard from our next destination. Cheers!
What is the Carretera Austral?
The Southern Highway or Ruta 7 in Southern Chile
1.240 km or 770 miles long
Runs from Villa O’Higgins to Puerto Montt
Best season to cycle is summer (November - March) — gets very cold and wet in winter
Partly unpaved, overall challenging but spectacular route
Classic route amongst biketourers, motorcyclists and overlanders
The route provides incredible mountain landscapes and large rivers to follow.
Starting the Carretera Austral: A Bikepacker’s Dream
After two windy months on the bike in Patagonia, we started meeting more and more bikepackers who had just finished the famous Carretera Austral. Nearly 9 out of 10 cyclists absolutely loved it. Only a few found it too busy for their taste. But Ryan and I were excited to leave the monotonous, dry pampas behind and trade them for green, lush canyons and rolling rivers!
The Adventurous Path to Villa O’Higgins
But just getting to the start of the Carretera Austral, the tiny town of Villa O’Higgins, is an adventure in itself. Cycling out of El Chaltén, we followed the winding, gravelly Ruta Provincial 41 alongside the Cañadon de Los Toros river. Surrounded by marshes and forests, we took a deep breath, feeling grateful for the green abundance. Thirty-six kilometers later, the narrow road comes to an end — and the real adventure began. Along with fellow cyclist Juan from Portugal, we loaded our bikes onto a ferry across Lago del Desierto.
* P.S. I believe we paid about $80 p.p. — quite pricey!
Just getting to Villa O’Higgins is quite the adventure and requires at least 2 ferry crossings.
Two Ferries and an Epic Hike-A-Bike
Upon reaching the north side of the lake, we waited in line with other back- and bikepackers to get our exit stamp from the Argentinian carabineros (border officers). This was the second time we’d left Argentina for Chile. We then walked our bikes into the forest to embark on an infamous hike-a-bike across no-man’s-land. Unless you’re lightly packed with a mountain bike, you’ll probably be walking this trail. For us, it was a bit of a sufferfest. Ryan and I had promised each other to limit hike-a-bikes to one per month on this trip, but keeping that promise might prove to be hard! Still, it was the only way to reach the remote Villa O’Higgins.
Fortunately, the eight kilometers were fairly successful. There were a few river crossings, pushing bikes onto steep hills and carrying them over tree roots, but we managed to get across in just a few hours.
Hola, Chile!
We get our Chilean entry stamps and waited for ferry number 2 (again, pretty expensive), that took us across the choppy Lago O’Higgins to Villa O’Higgins. Let the journey begin…
A Rainy Start in Villa O’Higgins
We got off the ferry with bikepacker and adventurer Armand (@thecrazyfrenchman88) and together, we rode our first few kilometers of the Carretera Austral. Chile immediately welcomed us with a cluster of gray clouds and our first raindrops in a very long time. We decided to stay in town for a few days, waiting out the heavy rain and working on our second episode of the Pat’Alaska series. This time off gave us the chance to take in the character of Villa O’Higgins and learn more about the town’s history.
A couple of days later, the sun peeked through the clouds, giving us the signal: It’s time to go.
Our First Days Bikepacking the Carretera Austral
Those first few days, we were blown away by the sheer amount of water. Thundering creeks, bluer-than-blue lakes, and waterfalls graced the landscapes around us. The contrast with the dry, vast steppe of Argentina couldn’t have been clearer.
We spent our first night on the Carretera Austral in a small cabin, privately owned but open for weary travelers — a beautiful gesture from its owner. That evening, we built a fire and stocked up on wood for the next passersby.
Water is everywhere on the route.
Riding South to North
Since we’re cycling the Carretera Austral from south to north (instead of the more popular north-to-south approach), we started our ride in almost complete solitude. The southern section of the Ruta 7 is definitely the more remote part, with very little traffic (given its dead end in Villa O’Higgins) and few estancias and cabins. We met a handful of other travelers, who were looking forward to reaching the end of their journey. For us, this was just the beginning.
Left: Ilse admiring the giant Chilean Rhubarb. / Right: Hiding from the rain with Armand.
Weather and Waypoints
The nights grew colder as the seasons slowly changed. It was early March, and summer was drawing to an end. During the day, temperatures varied between 5 - 15°C, and we cycled through rain, sun and cloudy conditions — four seasons in one day.
To “Tortel” or not to “Tortel”?
Pretty early in the ride, another ferry trip awaited us, though this time it was free of charge (phew). Along with a pack of motorcyclists, the ferry takes us from Rio Bravo to Caleta Yungay. On the other side of the water, a big climb awaited us. We slowly ground our way up the steep zigzag, accompanied by a light drizzle. Once at the top, we spiraled all the way down to the junction between Tortel and Cochrane. We chose the latter, as riding to Tortel would mean a 50-kilometer detour - an easy decision when driving a car, but more challenging when traveling by bike. We decided we’d see Tortel next time!
Long, winding mountain roads, colorful plants and huge bodies of water are an everyday treat on the CA.
A Place of Peace and Connection …
On the app iOverlander, we read multiple recommendations for an eco-friendly campground in a beautiful valley overlooking the powerful Rio Nadis and Rio Baker. Curious to see what the fuss was about, we turn off the Carretera Austral to see the place for ourselves. When we arrived, we immediately fell in love with the wooden, fairy-tale buildings and the complete quiet of the place. Far from the highway, there was nothing but the sound of nature to calm our senses.
The owner, Lily, took us horseback riding and together with two other guests, we explored her extensive property and farmlands. That same evening, we enjoyed the homemade sauna, resting our muscles in the darkness of dusk. Peeking out the sauna window, we watched birds and bunnies play in the tall grass. A moment to cherish…
One of the most beautiful memories of our trip — thank you, Lily & co.
First Town Stop: Cochrane
After four days, we had cycled more than 200 kilometers and arrived in Cochrane, where we took a rest day. This town has great vibes, and we’re welcomed with sunshine, fruit trees, and friendly locals. In a coffee shop, we even had a chance meeting with our new friends from the campground! It’s heartwarming honestly, meeting people from all over the planet in this remote corner of the world. It’s one of the things that makes this journey so much more meaningful.
Autumn Is On Its Way
With some remorse, we left Cochrane behind as the sun blasted upon our backs. We now face a difficult choice: either follow the Carretera Austral or detour into Parque Nacional Patagonia, a staggeringly beautiful park full of wildlife (including mountain lions!) and the grave of North Face founder and true environmentalist, Doug Tompkins. But we were running a bit late, so we decided to visit the park another time. We set up camp on the banks of Rio Baker and the next morning, we noticed a thin layer of frost on our sleeping bags... Just another sign that autumn was knocking on our door.
Wildcamping and Sightseeing
Surprisingly, the sun kept us company for the next few days, and we’re even brave enough to take our first swim of the trip! When we first started, we’d dreamed of taking a dip in the Beagle Channel, but once we actually arrived in Ushuaia, we quickly changed our minds! So this really felt like our first slice of summer.
Thanks to the gentle weather, we were able to camp almost every single night. There are plenty of campgrounds on the Carretera Austral, and with a little imagination, you can find some decent wildcamps yourself. One of our favorite camping spots was on the shore of Lago General Carrera, Chile’s largest freshwater lake.
The road took us along Lago General Carrera all the way to Puerto Rio Tranquilo, a small pueblo that serves as the gateway to the Glacier Exploradores and Catedral de Los Marmol, or “the marble cathedrals”. Yes, they were absolutely touristy, but oh so worth it! We managed not to get seasick on the choppy waves of the lake and loved exploring these magnificent marble rocks by boat.
Shaped over 6,000 years ago, the caves were sculpted by the erosion of limestone by the lake’s waters.
Welcome to the Family!
In Puerto Rio Tranquilo, Ryan celebrated the arrival of his new handlebar bag! After losing his handlebar bag on the airplane, he had been making do with a laptop bag (which was definitely NOT made for bike traveling). Fortunately, Rekki Works learned about our mishap and sent Ryan a brand new DX 35 and Monster Munch pockets. Ryan’s so stoked with his new handlebar bag and snack pockets — thanks for helping us out, Rekki Works!
In Awe of Cerro Castillo
Happy as a clam with Ryan’s new gear, we pointed our wheels towards Coihayque. But before arriving at the halfway point of the Carretera Austral, we pass by the quaint mountain town of Cerro Castillo. The beautiful estancias allow us to daydream of living on a fruit farm in this lush valley, surrounded by snowy peaks. This point marks a transition on the Carretera Austral — we’re riding on paved roads now! Although we love a good bit of gravel, pavement surely made the climbing easier.
The weather turned sour again and every day, we woke up underneath a gray blanket of clouds. We put on our rain jackets to protect us from the chill and light drizzle. Although it usually cleared up around noon, we watched the leaf colors popping left and right and spotted our very first huemul, the largest deer species native to Chile (spoiler: they are still really tiny).
Arriving in Coihayque
After spotting the first signs of autumn in Cerro Castillo, traffic and housing became denser. We knew we were getting close to the big city of Coihayque, the unofficial midway point of the Carretera Austral. We had cycled over 500 km now and were ready for a break!
We relaxed in town for a couple of days, did some very necessary laundry and set up a Lord of The Rings marathon, because, is there a better way to celebrate autumn? I don’t think so. Maybe Harry Potter.
The Second Half of the Carretera Austral: Back to the Real World
Back on the road, we were suddenly navigating heavy traffic and roadwork. Up until now, we had been so spoiled riding near-empty roads in Patagonian paradise. Now, we felt like we’d been catapulted back to “the real world”, where time and money rule. This made us aware of our privilege: being able to take time off work, fly to the other side of the world and cycle across continents. Always a wake-up call, so we got our act together and climbed our worries away.
Near the small town of Villa Ortega, we set up camp under a bridge - my mom’s worst nightmare - and have a great night’s sleep. We even spot a kingfisher watching over the river…
Lovely Lunch in a Fishermen’s Town
The following day, we bought some pan, queso and palta (Latin Spanish for avocado) in Villa Manihuales, a fishermen’s dream town. We seat ourselves in a little birch forest under a baby-blue sky. It was officially autumn now (March 21st), but we still sensed a hint of summer…
Taking advantage of the natural water sources, we slept next to another river, safely tucked away in the forest.
Motorists usually leaves a trail of dust behind on the gravel roads.
Solitude and Sketchy Roads
Nearing the end of March, we met fewer visitors and more locals, farmers, truckers, and construction workers. We even found a small camera alongside the road and posted a message on Facebook trying to find its owner, but unfortunately, no one ever showed up.
Armored in rain gear, we climbed our way up the green tunnel of Paso Queulat. It was paved all the way, but to our surprise, we were met by a sketchy gravel road on the descent. Cycling down the mountain felt endless, zigzagging at least twenty times. We can only imagine how tiresome it must be for cyclists going the other way!
Wildcamping in a Buggy Jungle
With fences left and right, we had few options for wild camping. These cattle fences and private property signs are everywhere in Argentina and Chile — difficult if you’re looking for a place to sleep with your bike.
After searching for a semi-decent spot, we dragged our bikes into a nearby patch of trees. It wasn’t ideal, but it worked - not all camps are glamorous! It felt like sleeping in a jungle that night, with birds chattering and crickets chirping. I’m a bit squeamish when it comes to bugs, and I realized I would have to face my fears on this trip.
Bikes waiting to board the ferry - a common sight on the Carretera Austral.
Raindrops trickling on our tent flaps gently woke us in the morning. The rainy fog obscure our views, something the Carretera Austral is actually well-known for. No lush forests without moisture and rain!
We rode in silence along the cliffs in the direction of Puyuhuapi. And thank goodness for iOverlander, because the app notifies about a very special stop… Dolphins!
Soon after observing the dolphin family that lives right off the coastline, the road turns to pavement and the rest of the day went smoothly. Soaked from the rain, we decided it was time for a hot shower and a night at a campground in La Junta.
An Alternative Ending
The end of the Carretera Austral was in sight. Officially running from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, we were now about 250 kilometers from Puerto Montt. At the last minute, we decided not to end this chapter in Puerto Montt, but to point our wheels back to Argentina. And just when we ventured off the Carretera Austral and think to ourselves: “Well, now we’ll hardly meet any other cyclists on the road”… That’s when we meet Sam.
Left: Ryosuke / Top Right: Sam / Bottom Right: Our lovely friends from Lily’s campground.
We venturef off in the direction of Futaleufú, a popular rafting destination and quaint mountain town. I had been struggling with a nasty stomach bug all day, so it was time to treat ourselves to a night indoors, with easy access to a bathroom… :(
The morning after, I felt slightly better and we crossed into Argentina for the third time. On the other side of the mountains, it hardly rains … But the wind was back. Fortunately, we were pretty hardened at this point, so without much further ado, we rode to Los Alerces National Park, named after the ancient trees residing in these forests.
It was off-season, and thanks to the lovely staff, we got to enter the park for free! Plus we had the park pretty much all to ourselves. The roads were empty, and we cycled side by side, chatting the time away and admiring fall foliage in full force.
The End of the Carretera Austral
And so we bid the Carretera Austral farewell, a route we will absolutely cherish forever.
There’s a saying in Patagonia that goes: “El que se apura en la Patagonia, pierde su tiempo” (he who is in a hurry, is wasting his time). During our time here, we did our best to live up to this saying. We took our time camping in the wild, swimming in deep lakes and embracing the hard times.
So, what’s next?
Finishing our own version of the Carretera Austral certainly feels like the end of an important chapter. The past few months, we really threw ourselves into the depths of Patagonia. Next up, we follow the iconic Ruta 40 in Argentina… Vamos!
Thanks for reading and following along! You can support our journey by becoming a Patreon member and get access to live updates and early video-releases — maybe even receive a postcard from our next destination :) Cheers!
