Hiking the Alta Via in the Dolomite Mountains
1. About the Alta Via 1
The Alta Via 1 is also known in German as Dolomiten Höhenweg and simply translates as High Route 1. It is probably the most popular trail of the 17 Dolomite alpine trails. This classic route through the Dolomites requires no expertise and is rated fairly easy to moderate. There are no technical challenges, but be prepared for some steep climbs and descents! That is why I would highly recommend trekking poles for this trail.
Trekking poles for the win!
The Alta Via 1 is about 77 miles (125 km). On average, you can complete the hike in 5 to 10 days, depending on your personal preferences and goals.
The Dolomite region is nestled in the Italian provinces of Trentino and Alto Adige (South Tyrol). I was really excited about experiencing the northern Italian mountain culture. In the Dolomite mountains, it is hard to miss the German and Ladin influences too. On trail too, you'll spot traditional mountain farms, artisan craft and many wooden chalets and huts.
1.2. What is the best time to hike the Alta Via 1?
The Italian Dolomites are most popular in both summer and winter. In winter, skiers and snowboarders flock together to glide down and enjoy the snowy mountain slopes. Hiking trails gradually reopen in spring, but you can be sure to encounter lots of (melting) snow. That's why most hikers choose to hike the Alta Via in summer (June, July, August) or even late summer. We chose the latter and hiked the Alta Via 1 in September, when the crowds died down and temperatures were mild.
1.3. Accommodation on the Alta Via 1
Is wild camping allowed? ⛺
Officially, wild camping is prohibited. That means it is not allowed to put up your tent in the Dolomites for more than 24 hours or during the daytime. The Dolomites are marked as UNESCO World Heritage site and protected as such. If caught, you could face a heavy fine.
That being said... If you pitch your tent just before dark and pack up early the next morning, you should be fine. Of course, please be aware of your surroundings. Try not to camp near the trail, settlements, tourist areas, farmland, or private land. Campfires are no good idea, as there's practically no wood and the area is very fragile. And, as always, leave no trace!
Mountain huts = Rifugios
Eventually, we chose to stay in the mountain huts, more commonly known as "rifugios". The Italian huts, usually run by families, are known for their hospitality, ambiance, and good food! True, they often serve gnocchi, knödels, and polenta, but no one cooks it better than they do. ;)
Rifugio Cinque Torri, about halfway of the hike.
Obviously, private rooms are more expensive than a bunkbed in the dormitory. I booked the rifugios well in advance since they tend to fill up pretty quickly in summer. You can contact them via their website or send them an e-mail to make your booking. Oh, and don't forget to mention if you want half-board (dinner + bed + breakfast) or simply wish to spend the night. In 2019, we spent about € 45 - 65 p.p. for half-board.
1.4. Maps and books of the trail
I LOVE to carry paper maps and - why the heck not? - information books! I know, I’m not very good at Ultra light hiking. ;-) The Cicerone guidebooks are a personal favorite. Before and during the Alta Via 1, I carried this book:
Ciceron's guidebook to the Alta Via trails.
I used Kompass maps number 55 (Cortina D'Ampezzo), 57 (Bruneck - Toblach - Prags) and 77 (Alpi Bellunesi).
Kompass Maps number 55, 57 and 77. Available online or in local trekking stores.
The Alta Via 1 is well-marked by blue triangle blazes with an inset number 1. There's little to no cell service, so it is better to download offline maps before you start the hike. All Trails or Gaia GPS are my favourite apps. Some huts do have Wifi, but don't get your hopes up.
2. My hike of the Alta Via 1
In early September, we traveled by plane from Brussels, Belgium to Verona, Italy. From Verona, we took the train to Bressanone and two buses to Braies.
Braies is a small village in South Tyrol that is home to the popular Instagram lake"Lago di Braies", also known as Pragser Wildsee. This celebrity lake is the official start of the Alta Via!
Day 1: Lago di Braies - Rifugio Sennes
No wonder this lake is so popular: Lago di Braies is truly beautiful, colorful, and easily accessible by car. Plus there are cows walking around! All those factors combined make it a dream destination for photographers, Instagram tourists and love birds. We probably saw a dozen wedding shoots! You can even rent boats now, advertised as "your perfect Instagram picture". For this reason, the lake reminds me almost of a Disney attraction... Not really my thing, but at least the cows were fun! :)
You start walking around the lake. All of a sudden, the trail turns into a steep climb into the mountains! Once up top, you have a beautiful overlook of Lago di Braies. The hundreds of tourists now all look like little ants from a distance. After some time, you reach the first mountain hut: Rifugio Biella (2300 m). Time for the first trail beer!
Tiny rifugio Biella in the left corner. The first panorama of the Dolomiti mountains!
From Biella, it was an easy and quiet stroll to Rifugio Sennes (2126m), where we spent the first night on trail in a charming chalet-like bedroom.
A popular drinking spot for shepherds (the bar) and cows (the lake), we too enjoyed the magnificent panorama over the peaks Croda Rossa, Cristallo, Sorapis and Tofano.
Day 2: Rifugio Sennes - Rifugio Fanes
Today, we walked on wide tracks. Besides other hikers, we meet a family of goats, a flock of sheep, some horses, and many more cows. This clearly is farmland, a charming sight between the towering limestone peaks. The trail now runs through a lunar plateau and stays relatively even. It follows the course of the valley and ends with a climb up to Rifugio Fanes (2060 m).
One of the cabins just before reaching Rifugio Fanes.
A pleasant day of walking is celebrated in the busy and thriving Rifugio Fanes, where we meet many other hikers and mountaineers. It is a beautiful, wooden structured refuge with excellent meals, don't miss it! After one too many Génépis and schnapps, it is bedtime. :)
Day 3: Rifugio Fanes - Rifugio Lagazuoi
Leaving Rifugio Fanes after a hearty breakfast, we walk to Passo Limo and Val di Fanes. All of a sudden, the path climbs up through very rocky terrain.
The view down from Forcella del Lago.
I can tell you, it is quite a climb to the spectacular Forcella del Lago (2486 m). Here, we found many other hikers pausing and taking in the surrounding. It feels like walking through a window, where you leave the world of mountain pastures behind you. In front of you, you see Lago di Lagazuoi and the long, steep descent that leads to Rifugio Lagazuoi.
Lago di Lagazuoi
After the descent to Lago di Lagazuoi, you are confronted with one of the the toughest climbs on trail. So fill up your water and take a deep breath before you walk the final stretch to the ravishing Rifugio Lagazuoi (2752 m). We arrived there quite out of breath, but the views were well worth the effort.
Rifugio Lagazuoi, one of the absolute highlights on trail.
Being the highest point on trail, its balcony has the most beautiful panorama over the Dolomiti region. Mountain peaks everywhere! Wow :) Keep in mind, however, that this iconic mountain refuge is more pricey than other huts.
Day 4: Rifugio Lagazuoi - Rifugio Cinque Torri
These lands were once war lands. You can visit Galleria Lagazuoi, a historic war tunnel built by Italian troops and pass by evidence of combat, such as barbed wire and fortifications. Strange to think of warfare in a region as beautiful as this one. Although, the clouds and mist do give the landscape an air of mystique...
We walk past Tofana di Rozes, a very popular peak with climbers. The landscape seems almost majestic, as the white, rocky habitat rises from the valley
The stretch to Rifugio Cinque Torri (2137 m) is definitely one of my favourite parts of the trail. We watch boulder climbers tackle towering rocks. Later in the evening, we enjoy our meal in Cinque Torri, a quaint family-run rifugio with more than satisfying food.
Rifugio Cinque Torri, named after "the Five Towers" in the background.
Day 5: Rifugio Cinque Torri - Rifugio Citta di Fiume
Today we leave the land of the Five Towers. Now, several routes are possible. We chose the longer option, skipping Passo Giau and heading to Croda da Lago instead.
The incredible Croda da Lago mountains, with Cima d'Ambrizzola as its highest peak.
After Passo Ambrizzola, grassy pastures and hillsides are our constant companion. This makes for easy walking and more cow-spotting.
We spent the afternoon gaping at Mount Pelmo. A monumental massif of limestone, this easily is one of the prettiest peaks in the Dolomiti region
Eventually, we arrive in Rifugio Citta di Fiume (1918 m). We were seated at the table with other hikers and shared dinner and Génépi. Great evening, lovely atmosphere, and a starry night sky.
Counting stars at rifugio Citta Di Fiume.
Day 6: Rifugio Citta Di Fiume - Rifugio Tissi
The trail takes you to Passo Staulanza, a mountain road that can get quite busy in summer. We had a coffee in the rifugio there, which was very popular with bikers and cyclists. After that, you can choose whether you walk the road or take the Giro di Mount Pelmo, which takes a little longer but is obviously more scenic. We chose the latter, following the west face of Monte Pelmo and zigzagging our way to rifugio Coldai. This rifugio is beautifully located on the slopes of Monte Civetta, offering a stunning view of the Civetta peaks. We took a well-earned break here, and arrived 15 minutes later at Lago Coldai, a beautiful little alpine lake.
Lago Coldai, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Dolomites
After dipping our toes in the water, we faced what felt for us like the hardest part of the trail: The climb to rifugio Tissi (2250m). The day was coming to an end, we were feeling pretty tired and we had to climb an extra steep 150 m to get to the secluded cabin. Nevertheless, all our woes disappeared when we arrived there. Tissi truly is a magical stay! We were treated to a spectacular sunset, friendly staff, and an amazing dinner with the kindest trail friends.
After dinner, we all went outside to savour the night skies.
The heart sculpture of Rifugio Tissi at nighttime.
Day 7: Rifugio Tissi - Rifugio San Sebastiano
We said goodbye to our trail friends and left for our next stop, rifugio San Sebastiano. Descending back to the Alta Via 1, we walked along the slopes of Monte Civetta (which offers +50 climbing routes!) into the Moiazza mountains. Slowly but surely, the Civetta peaks are fading in the distance. Now, the trail isn't too rocky, which means smooth walking.
Today we make for Passo Duran, another mountain pass along the trail. We spend the night in Rifugio San Sebastiano (1605 m), a beautifully decorated chalet just alongside the road. You can seat yourself next to the crackling fireplace, perfect to read a book or write in your journal. Definitely recommend staying in this peaceful refuge.
Day 8: Rifugio San Sebastiano - Rifugio Pian de Fontana
Day 8 on trail was largely spent in the Van di Città plateau, one of the more remote areas of the Alta Via 1. It is a dream for geologists, as it shows evidence of glacial and periglacial environments, as well as karst terrain.
Straight from a fantasy novel.
Along the way, we pass Rifugio Pramperet, nestled in the west side of the Sebastian peak.
This stage of the trail makes for spectacular hiking, as you scramble up to the Forcella de Cita Zud (2400m) and are rewarded with spectacular views of valleys. These deep valleys are called Van de Zita, the home of the chamois, a special kind of goat antelope that lives in the mountains.
From there on, it is all downhill to Rifugio Pian de Fontana (1632 m). And when I say downhill, I mean really downhill. This section is quite steep and exposed. Take care of those knees and make use of your trekking poles! This mountain hut is best-known for its excellent food. We spent the last night on trail in dormitory bunk beds, basic but more than sufficient.
Day 9: Rifugio Pian de Fontana - Belluno
The last day on trail takes you to grassy meadows with marvelous views.
One last trek to Forcella Varetta, from where you make way for rifugio Bianchet. The perfect cabin to have a drink and celebrate the ending of your trek, so quaint and peaceful! Now, the path descends and slowly evolves from a rocky landscape to a wooded area. In this valley, you see gorges and overhanging cliffs, all bewildered with trees and scrubs. This is what South America looks like in my imagination. Under the cover of trees, we hear the sounds of civilizatio coming closer. Eventually, the trail leads all the way to the road near La Stanga where you can take the bus to Belluno. After 20 minutes on the bus with several other hikers, we arrive in Belluno.
3. Tips and tricks
When passing by or spending the night at one of the rifugios, be sure to try a glass of Génépi! This is an alpine plant that is typical for the region. The liquor made from this plant has a strong herbal taste but is not too sweet. Generally, one drinks Génépi after dinner or outdoor activities. You'll find Génépi in every Rifugio, where they often produce homemade recipes. Génépi usually is about 40°, the perfect nightcap after a long day of hiking!
When you decide to hike the trail in spring or fall, make sure you bring the right gear! You will probably need an ice axe and crampons, depending on the snow level. And do not forget a weeklong supply of food and your tent, as most of the mountain huts will be closed for the season.
An alternative ending would be to hike/climb all the way to Belluno. The final stretch of the trail is, however, for experts only. The difficult via ferrata takes you from Mount Schiara all the way down to Belluno. Of course, you will need the right equipment and level of skill to tackle this. Since I had neither, I took the mellow way down. ;-)