Backpacking Food | Bushka’s Kitchen
Backpacking food: There’s a lot to be said on the topic. For us, it’s quite easy: We like our backcountry meals light, affordable, easy, tasty, and nutritious. Sounds familiar? ;-)
For long outdoor adventures, we usually stack up on ramen, mashed potatoes, and Knorr rice and pasta sides. But every now and then, we indulge in proper backpacking food, if only to support all the amazing local & food-conscious companies out there. That is why we were thrilled to be working together with Bushka’s Kitchen for our 2022 adventure of the Great Divide Trail in Canada.
We carried Bushka’s meals for our first two weeks of the Great Divide Trail. From the start, we were thrown into the Canadian Rockies and faced daily elevation gains of 1500 m (5,000 ft), scrambly ridge walks, and 12 hour-hiking days. So, needless to say, we needed all the calories and fats we could get. When you are scrambling on steep, rugged terrain, you can easily burn up to 900 calories/hr. That means it is necessary to pay attention to what and how much you eat. Bushka’s meals are full of fats and proteins: Just what you need for your backcountry adventure!
Whereas most backpacking meals take about 8 to 10 minutes to prepare, Bushka’s dinners require only 3 minutes of waiting time. The perfect time to blow up your sleeping pad or switch to your camp socks! We found the portions to be generous, and we happily shared a meal every night, together with some couscous or ramen.
The bags are lightweight, can be used as meal pouches, and are easily reused as garbage bags. Oh, and the colors are fun, too. What’s not to like?
Entrées | Venison, Bison or Vegetarian: Choose your Pick
Ryan and I used to eat plant-based, but over the last few years, we prefer to eat meat and fish again. That is why we absolutely loved the Hunter’s Pie. The taste of the ground venison together with mashed potatoes, carrots and peas was amazing. A true comfort meal, heartwarming and just what you need after a long, exhaustive day. Hunter’s Pie proudly boasts 780 cal. and 33g of protein.
Attention, meat lovers: If this made your ears ring, be sure to try the Hearty Harvest. This hearty meal has it all: Wild boar (?!), creamy mushroom basmati rice, apple chunks, and green beans. Yep, this is fine dining in the backcountry. This meal has about 570 cal. and 30g of protein in it. For the Italian fans, there is the Unstuffed Pepper, a true Italian dish with San Marzano tomato sauce, espresso-salted bison (yes, bison), bell peppers, green onion & quinoa. With 570cal and 31g of protein, this dish will make you want to move mountains.
The vegetarian options are pretty impressive, too. There’s the risottos’ and chilis that we all know, but Bushka’s changes the game and introduced us to the Zesty Zoodles and Lentil Lunch. The Zesty Zoodles (540 cal, 11g protein) does not only have a funky name, but is also a funky dish! It is a pasta dish with chunks of zucchini and cherry tomatoes, but it is the avocado sauce with a twist of lemon that makes this entrée very interesting. Refreshing, to say the least.
We loved to have the Lentil Lunch for, well, lunch! It was a nice break from the ramen and peanut-butter-wraps. After 3 minutes of cold-soaking, you had yourself a healthy lentil meal, spiced up by dill vinaigrette, cucumbers, apple, onion, and bell peppers. A really refreshing lunch on trail, perfect for a quick lunch break. With 600 cal and 29g of protein, you are fuelled up for the rest of the day.
If you’re a potato lover, then the Sweet Potato Mash and Mashed Potatoes are your go-to. The Mashed Potatoes tasted creamy and buttery and easily serve to 2 people. The Sweet Potato Mash was spiced with cinnamon (that’s me!), clove and Vermon maple syrup, giving it a surprisingly sweet touch.
What are our favorites?
Easy question: The Yogurt Bowls, Banana Bites and the Hearty Harvest stole our hearts!
While we usually are not the biggest breakfast fans on trail - we like to sleep in - we did manage to get up a little earlier for Bushka’s Yogurt Bowls. You can choose between Raspberries & Almond Granola and Blueberries & Coconut Granola. Both have Dahi whole milk yoghurt, organic oats, and maple syrup. Just fill up the bag with cold water, let it soak for 3 minutes - et voilà! In late summer, you can even pluck some wild berries and spice up your yogurt bowl. The Yogurts boast 570 cal. and 21g of protein each.
True, dried banana chips are a classic when it comes to backpacking snacks. Yet, Bushka’s Banana Bites (110 cal, 1g protein) are simple and yet so good. The bites melt in your mouth, taste fresh and natural, plus they make an excellent combo with the Yogurt Bowls and Rice Puddin’!
Blog sponsored by Bushka’s Kitchen
The End of the GDT | Back to life, back to reality…
And so our journey in the Canadian wilderness has come to an end. On September 24th, somewhere around noon, Ryan and I stumbled onto Highway 16 between Prince George and McBride. The food was all gone, water bottles were nearly empty and our brains foggy. We started sticking our thumbs out, and much to our surprise, we got picked up within 5 minutes.
We’re no strangers to hitchhiking.
Two days before, we reached the official end of the Great Divide Trail in Kakwa Provincial Park. At km 1095, you reach Kakwa Lake and its wooden cabin, a magnificent end to a magnificent hike… But unless you have fancy friends with a float plane, you still need to hike another 100 km to exit the remote park and catch a ride on Hwy 16. Kakwa Park is accessible by foot, bike, or horse only. No cars or ATVs allowed: The park promotes pure, untouched wilderness.
Our first driver, 90-some years of age, didn’t exactly pull over, but stopped in the middle of the road. He beckoned us to come in and put our packs in the car. Semi-trucks were driving by, angrily honking their horns, but our dear driver did not seem to care nor hear it. Originally from the U.K., he moved to Canada 70 years ago and loved it. He dropped us off at an old-school diner in McBride, where we indulged in the most amazing burgers and poutine. About 6 coffee refills later, we were fuelled up for the next leg of the journey. Although the hiking part was officially over, we still had + 500 highway kilometers to cover.
Hitchhiking in 2022
During our entire GDT adventure, we had over 20 hitches! Our conclusion? We are all just people in the end, and being kind to others is truly the coolest thing you can do - even in 2022.
Hitchhiking in Canada has been quite an adventure. Not only is hitchhiking pretty rare in 2022 - “we’re not living in the hippie 60s anymore” - but some highways don’t even allow picking up hitchhikers! Good thing that some people are still rebels and just want to help another human out. So in the end, we always had a ride out and were fortunate to meet people from all different walks of life.
One of our driver friends & his white truck.
After an hourlong wait in McBride, an A&W cook and his manager picked us up, gave us chocolate to munch on, and conveniently dropped us off in the direction of Jasper, where our third driver, a hard-working First Nation Saskatchewanian picked us up. He generously bought us food in KFC and drove us all the way to Hinton. The next day, a kind banker lady drove us to Edmonton. We listened to country music and talked about banks, dogs, and crazy technology. It was her first time picking up hitchhikers. We think she might do it again.
Hitching to the start of the GDT. Yes, the Sharpie was near-empty.
Hitchhiking after finishing the Great Divide Trail made our return to the “real world” gradual and gentle. However, it still feels like a shock. After a long period of solitude and simplicity, society and its multitude of impulses, people, smells, and sounds can be quite overwhelming.
Posing with our guardian angel
- made by Lynnie Wonfor
But we were lucky to spend a couple of nights with the Wonfors, the kindest and most caring family in Calgary. We learned again that connecting with the right people can be healing, too. ❤
So, what’s on the menu for October? Basically, editing and writing until we drop. After a two-week housesit and taking care of two dogs, we will hit the road again in mid-October. First, we head south to Phoenix for work in the desert. After that, we drive another 2,000 miles to Pittsburgh, where we meet up with Ryan’s family. We’ll say our goodbyes to the van and welcome a new chapter in Belgium… Aloha!
“So was I once myself a swinger of birches.
And so I dream of going back to be.
It’s when I’m weary of considerations,
And life is too much like a pathless wood
Where your face burns and tickles with the cobwebs
Broken across it, and one eye is weeping
From a twig’s having lashed across it open.
I'd like to get away from earth awhile
And then come back to it and begin over.”
(Excerpt from Robert Frosts’ Birches)
Hiking in Glacier’s Backcountry
July is blooming time for the yellow Glacier lily.
Visiting Glacier National Park in the summertime? Yep, it is just as busy as it sounds! With over 3 million visitors a year, Glacier is one of the most popular National Parks in the U.S. That means traffic lines, vehicle reservations, and full parking lots. Nevertheless, don’t let this get in your way of spending time in one of the wildest and most authentic parks of all.
Two Ocean Glacier
High up north in Montana lie these glacial wonderlands that inspire so many. Not surprisingly, Montana is known as “Big Sky” state or - my personal favorite - “The Land of Shining Mountains”. Established in 1910, the park was home to over 100 glaciers. Today, that amount has shrunk to roughly two dozen - and the glaciers keep getting smaller.
Family Time
My dearest cousin Meike!
We met up with my cousin Meike, who came all the way from Belgium to visit us! We picked her up at the train station in West-Glacier, where the Amtrak stops on its way from Seattle to Chicago. It was her first time visiting the U.S., and my first visitor from Belgium! Needless to say, I was really happy to have her with us on this trip.
Glacier Campgrounds
The first couple of nights, we camped at Two Medicine Lake and Apgar. Both campgrounds in the west are excellently run by the Park Service. We paid about $20 a night, and enjoyed the facilities that came with it. We watched bighorn sheep licking coals from the fire pits, swam in Lake McDonald, and waited for the Going-To-The-Sun Road to open up. Officially the scenic road’s latest opening, snowplough crews managed to complete the job on July 13th. The park gets snow almost year-round, and its mountain peaks are still snowcapped throughout summer.
How to get Backcounty Permits in Glacier
Longing for some peace and quiet, we decided it was time to put on our backpacks and escape the crowds and reservation systems… Just kidding: Camping in a national park requires planning and reservations, too! Not our strongest asset, but we made it work. :)
Working our way through the yellow Glacier lilies.
We headed to the backcountry office in Apgar village in the wee hours of the morning. Turns out that most camping permits were already gone, but we happily settled for the last remaining permits, made our way to the shuttle bus, and started the hike!
Moose antlers in the woods.
PS: If you are, just like us, pretty last-minute and in need of camping permits, you will want to get there early, too! Glacier’s backcountry office opens up at 7:30 AM, but it gets very busy during summer. Combined with the fact that you need a vehicle registration - which we did not have -, we got to the office at 5:30 AM… Only to find out that there were already 3 other hikers waiting in line! Speaking of dedication :-)
Itinerary of the hike
Day 1: Loop Trailhead - Granite Park (4.2 miles)
Followed the popular trail up to the beautiful Granite Chalet. No liquor license, alas, so no beers or any other drinks here. But you are rewarded with a million-dollar view and lots of friendly people.
Time to rest after our first day of hiking
The campground is just half a mile away, tucked away between the trees. There’s a stream and a pole to hang your food. Oh, and a very nice pit toilet.
A pit toilet with a view.
Day 2: Granite Park - Flattop Mountain (9.9 miles)
We hiked all the way back down, which was way easier than going up. Then we set out for the other side of the valley, following McDonald Creek and eventually crossing it to the other side. There’s a cool suspension bridge. We went up, slowly but surely, up the hill until we could no longer see nor hear the road. Thick brushes and thousands of wildflowers embraced us as we followed the trail.
Seeking shelter in our tents.
Eventually, beautiful waterfalls greeted us - along with swarms of mosquitos. Time for head nets, rain gear, and Deet spray! This campsite, too, has a pole, a nice privy, and nearby water sources.
Day 3: Flattop Mountain - Stony Indian Lake (14.5 miles)
Running away from the mosquito’s the next morning, we stopped for nothing or no one. We did notice, however, large amounts of bear scat… Could this mean something?
Around noon, we were admiring a young male elk, when all of a sudden, a bush on my right looked a little… hairy. I squinted my eyes - as I often do - to see what it was… And it was a Grizzly cub! First, we were complete in awe and in love with the playful, furry cub… But then it dawned on us: Where’s mom?? And at once, mama bear came out of the bushes and guided her cub safely away from us. A beautiful, intimate, and precious encounter.
The afternoon turned out to be pretty spicey: We encountered many snow patches, some snow bridges, and lots of bushwhacking. So, we sang and clapped our way through the dense bushes and ferns, to scare no bears or other animals. But in turn, we got scared when we smelled the scent of death… Right on the trail, there was a mountain goat carcass, half-eaten and decayed. After that, we clapped even more loudly and vigorously and rushed our way to Stony Indian Lake: A beautiful alpine lake, where we plunged in the icy cold water and ate dinner alongside lively mosquitos and ground squirrels.
Day 4: Stony Indian Lake - Fifty Mountains (8.2 miles)
An easy day back to Fifty Mountains Campground, which we passed the previous day. We took a nap in the fields full of Glacier Lilies and read some poetry. Meike spotted singing Western toads in the melting snow puddles.
North of the campsite, we passed the remains of an old backcountry patrol cabin. A peaceful day and night…
The hills are alive… ♫
… which turned into a heavy storm with thunder, lightning, and rain that same night. We got out of the tents to stake them deeper into the ground and looked up to the sky, shiveringly. We were in the hands of Thor now, nothing more we could do…
But we survived! And the creepy sound just outside of our tent? That was a deer passing by, licking up our pee. The deer here just love pee for its salt.
Thank you, Glacier, for a full and rich experience. If you have the chance, go out there! It's worth the trouble and the wait.
Thanks for reading!
Pacific Crest Trail: Section K: Stehekin to Stevens Pass
PCT SOBO hike in Washington: Glacier Peak Wilderness
After a wholesome evening in Stehekin, section K of the PCT SOBO continues through Glacier Peak Wilderness, high up in the mountains. It was late July, the sky was baby blue, and the sunlight bathed the forests and creeks in different shades of gold. Because of the summer heat and elevation gain, it was a pretty rough, but rewarding stretch!
Day 3: First steps into the valley
Left: Irish making his way around a fallen tree. / Right: Welcome to Glacier Peak Wilderness!
Stuffed from the bakery goodies in Stehekin, we put our backpacks back on and said farewell to the friendly bus driver. Now it is all the way uphill! We gradually climb up to 678m (2255 ft).
Shiny new suspension bridges along the PCT.
After 12 miles of huffing and puffing, we camp alongside South Fork Agnes Creek, a wild glacial stream. The campsite used to be sketchy due to hazardous trees, so we paid extra attention to where we staked our tents.
Day 4: Climbing to the heart of Glacier Peak Wilderness
I woke up (late again) and enjoyed a hot coffee while reading on Farout (you know, the previous Guthooks) what today's hike would bring. It was very clear: Today's trail would be devoted to the ascend into Glacier Peak Wilderness. Climbing, climbing, and more climbing. Oh, and bushwhacking.
Crossing creeks via wooden bridges or logs.
The sun was our constant companion in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Armed with sunglasses and a sunhat, I slowly moved forward. The landscape in the valley started to change with every step. After bushwhacking through brambles and bushes, the vegetation was now growing sparse and the creeks were getting colder.
By pure chance, I found Dudders' glasses in the middle of some serious bushwhacking and was happy to return them to him. Later that day, I would lose my watch while scrambling over a fallen tree. Surprisingly, Irish found it and returned it to me that same evening. Sometimes, as Luna Lovegood in Harry Potter says, "things we lose have a way of coming back to us in the end... If not always in a way we expect."
Blowdown trees: Thank you trail crew!
The afternoon is spent walking in the woods again. A sky-high, old forest full of towering trees. Many of those giants seem to have succumbed to gravity. Fallen trees form huge obstacles and I wriggle myself under or push myself over the tree. It feels like a true jungle workout! Later on, we heard that the PCT trail crews put all their time and effort into clearing these blowdowns. Some trees are colossal and I can only imagine the effort it takes to clear them from the trail. I salute these people!
Blowdowns feel like forest gymnastics!
SOBO Hikers: Birds of a feather flock together
I set up camp at 5 pm and was soon joined by Irish and Dudders. Irish taught me to camp away from the trail, as animals use trail tracks too. He too shows me to pour out snacks in one's hand. Trail hygiene is somewhat primitive, so it is better not to touch each other's food. I am grateful for the knowledge he shares with me and simply happy with my two trail buddies. I am 25 years old, Irish is 50-ish and Dudders 73. Three different generations, one beautiful connection.
Cougar alarm
That night, we were awakened by someone entering camp. It is a rattled hiker from Seattle who was stalked by a cougar not far from our camp. She stayed with us for the night. During twilight hours and nighttime, cougars are most active.
Day 5: Alpine enchantment on the PCT
Today was all about flowers, colours, clouds,... An abundance of life. I am still spellbound just thinking about it. The world feels very different up there.
Flower paradise.
Not only the ripening berries, but also the first NOBOs start to show up! From then on, I would meet a handful, or more, thruhikers and sectionhikers every day. Conversations were funny, genuine and kept me going with a smile on my face. Plus I made other friends too..
Left: Blacktail deer saying hi! / Right: Into the Glacier Peak territory.
This day was my first 20-mile day as a PCT SOBO hiker. I had my intentions set on the Dolly Vista camp spot - gorgeous pit toilet - and was happy to reach it. The end of the day was a +2000 feet climb in less than 3 miles. It was painful, but rewarding. Washington in a nutshell!
I bathed my feet in the icy-cold water while swatting mosquitos and drinking hot cacao. Time for bed now.
Day 6: Hiking up and down with a hint of bear spray
Started hiking at 5700 feet, then following switchbacks downhill to 3200, and eventually climbing back to 5400 feet. All in less than 10 miles. Yep, this is Washington for sure!
Mica Lake (5400 feet) was the place where my friend Stitches had an injury that - wait for it - left him with stitches in his forehead. I mentally sent him some support and hoped to see him soon back on trail.
Left & middle: Yummy water sources. / Right: Branden's walking stick.
After the final climb, the trail took me past many seasonal mountain streams and flower fields. I drank from every creek and waterfall. The Washington water tasted SO good! :)
26 miles in, I decided to call it a day. Unfortunately, that night, I accidentally showered myself with bear spray. I had to scoop ice in Ziploc bags and sleep with my aching hands tucked in those bags. Quite the adventure indeed :-)
Day 7: From Portal Peak to Kodak Peak ❤️
With bags under my eyes and burning, red hands, I dragged myself to Portal Peak, where I met some nice climbers who took my picture.
After chatting for a while, we said our goodbyes. I waved to White mountain and made way for Kodak Peak. Is it a coincidence that I would meet fellow SOBO hiker Kodak that same day, on that exact location? ❤️
We took a break in lake Sally Ann and talked the day away. The landscape was evergreen. Pear Lake was where we camped. We had a lovely evening swim, chatted with fellow hikers, and fell asleep under the sound of buzzing mosquitos. It is the very end of July and they are more awake than ever.
Day 8: Hitchhiking from the PCT to Skykomish
After 10 miles of hiking, we arrive at Stevens Pass and hitchhike west to Skykomish. Population: 121.
Skykomish has a laundry (hurray), a pub (double hurray!), and the Cascadia Inn, a hiker-friendly hotel owned by the major himself! Beer, town food, a shower, and a bed - I am a happy woman.
Thanks for reading!
Pacific Crest Trail - Section K: Rainy Pass to Stehekin (part 1)
My first steps on the PCT as a SOBO hiker.
Rainy Pass had its own mini-PCT-monument.
Day 1: Better start walking!
Saturday, July 24th is D-day! I am dropped off by trail angel Madd Baker at Rainy Pass, 61 miles from the Canadian border. As we speak, the Cedar Creek fire is still burning and I was advised to start my PCT SOBO hike from Rainy Pass. Remembering my promise to my mother to make wise decisions, I'm headed for Rainy Pass. I'll be back for you, northern terminus!
Nothing ever goes as planned. And that's totally fine!
After all the disappointments in 2020 (aka canceled NOBO permit due to Covid), I was just very grateful to be on trail. Whether northbound, southbound, eastbound or whatever - I was there! I fought hard for my dream to come true and it was coming true. I looked at my two feet and watched them slowly move forward. Now it's time to walk!
Some of the first PCT trail markers I encountered on trail.
Bear bravery? ... Not really :)
My moment of bravery and self-confidence was short lived, when after only 15 minutes I encountered my first black bear. Crunching on the leaves of a fallen tree, looking for roots and early berries. Starstruck. Bears truly are beautiful animals. I just wasn't sure how to proceed. Not long after that came Irish. "Don't you worry, they won't hurt you! Just walk on!" Following the footsteps of this brave Irishman, I cautiously proceeded. My first day on trail, my first bear. How befitting!
Left: Bear claw marks on the right tree. / Right: My guess: the Eastern White pine cone.
I only walked 8 miles that day, stopping every now and then to pinch myself and see if this was real. And to catch my breath - I was struggling with the weight of my backpack. Every beginning is hard, and that is okay. I am always reminded of a quote of Murakami:
"Pain is inevitable. Suffering is optional."
I'd like to live by that.
Washington wilderness wonders
First impressions of the Washington wilderness? Only superlatives. So green, so lush! What a wild, bold, and brave terrain. I walked with a smile on my face every single day. My first campsitelearned was shared with Sofa Queen. I learnt about her excellent dental hygiene on trail - impressive! - and her incredible courage to carry a backpack that was even heavier than mine. The next morning, I was hoping to wake up at 6 AM, but it was 9 instead. Oh well!
Howard Lake, full of loud frogs and lily pads.
Hiking in my own fantasy world
The first couple of days I walked without earphones. Gradually, I enjoyed listening to some music or a podcast now and then. Some steep climbs got a little easier when Wilco was singing in my ear. Whenever I felt tired, I carried on listening to the adventures of Bilbo and Frodo in Middle Earth. I looked around and could well imagine their quest, sorrows, and aches. Not that I encountered any orcs or unfriendly trees, on the contrary: The trees were magnificent and the people were good-looking and gracious. ;-)
Day 2: A lovely time in Stehekin
My second day on trail started later than anticipated, but I was very excited. I would make way for Stehekin today! After a sunny and happy morning, I arrived around noon at the High Bridge. This quaint little spot includes a ranger cabin (home to the friendly ranger Stan), information signs, and picnic tables. That is where I met Tahlia and her dog Strider. All of us descended to drink from the swirling Stehekin River.
The aquamarine blue Stehekin River.
Together, the three of us took the shuttle bus to Stehekin (the schedule can be found on FarOut). Tahlia was meeting up with a friend who worked at The Garden, an organic produce farm. We decided to meet up later in town that evening. Since it was only my second night on the trail, I decided to free camp in a designated camping area in town.
Stehekin is accessible by boat, plane, or foot only. So, "town" literally means a post office, a general store, and a couple of chalets. It is a peaceful boaters' paradise.
Blue skies, blue water.
Swimming session in Lake Chelan
After setting up my tent, I escaped my sweaty clothes and took a refreshing swim in Lake Chelan. It was icy cold, but it felt so good! There were some families on boats enjoying the setting sun in the middle of the lake. Tahlia joined me for a swim, and later we had a beer with her friend from The Garden, the three of us looking out over the lake. It was then that I had my first wasp sting - that's what you get for drinking sweet cider! ;-)
Lake Chelan, from the Salish word Tsi-Laan, meaning deep water.
That same evening, I saw Irish again who met up with his hiker friend, Dudders. They hiked the PCT together in 2017 and were now hiking SOBO. I enjoyed their company together with Crisco. Tahlia and Strider later joined us too. It was a lovely evening.
Day 3: Leaving Stehekin as ... Cinnamon!
The next morning, the shuttle bus took us back to trail around 8 PM. I hardly managed to get up on time and pack up - and frankly, I still suck at waking up early. Irish and Dudders were on the bus too and happy that I made it after all! 10minutes later, the bus stopped at the bakery. That's right, THE bakery of Stehekin! It really lives up to its reputation. The staff is so friendly and the food is unforgettable. In particular, the pizza slices, blueberry muffins, and their world-famous cinnamon buns were fantastic. I shared those with Irish and Dudders, who in turn rewarded me with my trailname: Cinnamon! I couldn't be happier.
Yep, this is me from now on! Yummy :)
Thanks for reading!
Hiking the Alta Via in the Dolomite Mountains
1. About the Alta Via 1
The Alta Via 1 is also known in German as Dolomiten Höhenweg and simply translates as High Route 1. It is probably the most popular trail of the 17 Dolomite alpine trails. This classic route through the Dolomites requires no expertise and is rated fairly easy to moderate. There are no technical challenges, but be prepared for some steep climbs and descents! That is why I would highly recommend trekking poles for this trail.
Trekking poles for the win!
The Alta Via 1 is about 77 miles (125 km). On average, you can complete the hike in 5 to 10 days, depending on your personal preferences and goals.
The Dolomite region is nestled in the Italian provinces of Trentino and Alto Adige (South Tyrol). I was really excited about experiencing the northern Italian mountain culture. In the Dolomite mountains, it is hard to miss the German and Ladin influences too. On trail too, you'll spot traditional mountain farms, artisan craft and many wooden chalets and huts.
1.2. What is the best time to hike the Alta Via 1?
The Italian Dolomites are most popular in both summer and winter. In winter, skiers and snowboarders flock together to glide down and enjoy the snowy mountain slopes. Hiking trails gradually reopen in spring, but you can be sure to encounter lots of (melting) snow. That's why most hikers choose to hike the Alta Via in summer (June, July, August) or even late summer. We chose the latter and hiked the Alta Via 1 in September, when the crowds died down and temperatures were mild.
1.3. Accommodation on the Alta Via 1
Is wild camping allowed? ⛺
Officially, wild camping is prohibited. That means it is not allowed to put up your tent in the Dolomites for more than 24 hours or during the daytime. The Dolomites are marked as UNESCO World Heritage site and protected as such. If caught, you could face a heavy fine.
That being said... If you pitch your tent just before dark and pack up early the next morning, you should be fine. Of course, please be aware of your surroundings. Try not to camp near the trail, settlements, tourist areas, farmland, or private land. Campfires are no good idea, as there's practically no wood and the area is very fragile. And, as always, leave no trace!
Mountain huts = Rifugios
Eventually, we chose to stay in the mountain huts, more commonly known as "rifugios". The Italian huts, usually run by families, are known for their hospitality, ambiance, and good food! True, they often serve gnocchi, knödels, and polenta, but no one cooks it better than they do. ;)
Rifugio Cinque Torri, about halfway of the hike.
Obviously, private rooms are more expensive than a bunkbed in the dormitory. I booked the rifugios well in advance since they tend to fill up pretty quickly in summer. You can contact them via their website or send them an e-mail to make your booking. Oh, and don't forget to mention if you want half-board (dinner + bed + breakfast) or simply wish to spend the night. In 2019, we spent about € 45 - 65 p.p. for half-board.
1.4. Maps and books of the trail
I LOVE to carry paper maps and - why the heck not? - information books! I know, I’m not very good at Ultra light hiking. ;-) The Cicerone guidebooks are a personal favorite. Before and during the Alta Via 1, I carried this book:
Ciceron's guidebook to the Alta Via trails.
I used Kompass maps number 55 (Cortina D'Ampezzo), 57 (Bruneck - Toblach - Prags) and 77 (Alpi Bellunesi).
Kompass Maps number 55, 57 and 77. Available online or in local trekking stores.
The Alta Via 1 is well-marked by blue triangle blazes with an inset number 1. There's little to no cell service, so it is better to download offline maps before you start the hike. All Trails or Gaia GPS are my favourite apps. Some huts do have Wifi, but don't get your hopes up.
2. My hike of the Alta Via 1
In early September, we traveled by plane from Brussels, Belgium to Verona, Italy. From Verona, we took the train to Bressanone and two buses to Braies.
Braies is a small village in South Tyrol that is home to the popular Instagram lake"Lago di Braies", also known as Pragser Wildsee. This celebrity lake is the official start of the Alta Via!
Day 1: Lago di Braies - Rifugio Sennes
No wonder this lake is so popular: Lago di Braies is truly beautiful, colorful, and easily accessible by car. Plus there are cows walking around! All those factors combined make it a dream destination for photographers, Instagram tourists and love birds. We probably saw a dozen wedding shoots! You can even rent boats now, advertised as "your perfect Instagram picture". For this reason, the lake reminds me almost of a Disney attraction... Not really my thing, but at least the cows were fun! :)
You start walking around the lake. All of a sudden, the trail turns into a steep climb into the mountains! Once up top, you have a beautiful overlook of Lago di Braies. The hundreds of tourists now all look like little ants from a distance. After some time, you reach the first mountain hut: Rifugio Biella (2300 m). Time for the first trail beer!
Tiny rifugio Biella in the left corner. The first panorama of the Dolomiti mountains!
From Biella, it was an easy and quiet stroll to Rifugio Sennes (2126m), where we spent the first night on trail in a charming chalet-like bedroom.
A popular drinking spot for shepherds (the bar) and cows (the lake), we too enjoyed the magnificent panorama over the peaks Croda Rossa, Cristallo, Sorapis and Tofano.
Day 2: Rifugio Sennes - Rifugio Fanes
Today, we walked on wide tracks. Besides other hikers, we meet a family of goats, a flock of sheep, some horses, and many more cows. This clearly is farmland, a charming sight between the towering limestone peaks. The trail now runs through a lunar plateau and stays relatively even. It follows the course of the valley and ends with a climb up to Rifugio Fanes (2060 m).
One of the cabins just before reaching Rifugio Fanes.
A pleasant day of walking is celebrated in the busy and thriving Rifugio Fanes, where we meet many other hikers and mountaineers. It is a beautiful, wooden structured refuge with excellent meals, don't miss it! After one too many Génépis and schnapps, it is bedtime. :)
Day 3: Rifugio Fanes - Rifugio Lagazuoi
Leaving Rifugio Fanes after a hearty breakfast, we walk to Passo Limo and Val di Fanes. All of a sudden, the path climbs up through very rocky terrain.
The view down from Forcella del Lago.
I can tell you, it is quite a climb to the spectacular Forcella del Lago (2486 m). Here, we found many other hikers pausing and taking in the surrounding. It feels like walking through a window, where you leave the world of mountain pastures behind you. In front of you, you see Lago di Lagazuoi and the long, steep descent that leads to Rifugio Lagazuoi.
Lago di Lagazuoi
After the descent to Lago di Lagazuoi, you are confronted with one of the the toughest climbs on trail. So fill up your water and take a deep breath before you walk the final stretch to the ravishing Rifugio Lagazuoi (2752 m). We arrived there quite out of breath, but the views were well worth the effort.
Rifugio Lagazuoi, one of the absolute highlights on trail.
Being the highest point on trail, its balcony has the most beautiful panorama over the Dolomiti region. Mountain peaks everywhere! Wow :) Keep in mind, however, that this iconic mountain refuge is more pricey than other huts.
Day 4: Rifugio Lagazuoi - Rifugio Cinque Torri
These lands were once war lands. You can visit Galleria Lagazuoi, a historic war tunnel built by Italian troops and pass by evidence of combat, such as barbed wire and fortifications. Strange to think of warfare in a region as beautiful as this one. Although, the clouds and mist do give the landscape an air of mystique...
We walk past Tofana di Rozes, a very popular peak with climbers. The landscape seems almost majestic, as the white, rocky habitat rises from the valley
The stretch to Rifugio Cinque Torri (2137 m) is definitely one of my favourite parts of the trail. We watch boulder climbers tackle towering rocks. Later in the evening, we enjoy our meal in Cinque Torri, a quaint family-run rifugio with more than satisfying food.
Rifugio Cinque Torri, named after "the Five Towers" in the background.
Day 5: Rifugio Cinque Torri - Rifugio Citta di Fiume
Today we leave the land of the Five Towers. Now, several routes are possible. We chose the longer option, skipping Passo Giau and heading to Croda da Lago instead.
The incredible Croda da Lago mountains, with Cima d'Ambrizzola as its highest peak.
After Passo Ambrizzola, grassy pastures and hillsides are our constant companion. This makes for easy walking and more cow-spotting.
We spent the afternoon gaping at Mount Pelmo. A monumental massif of limestone, this easily is one of the prettiest peaks in the Dolomiti region
Eventually, we arrive in Rifugio Citta di Fiume (1918 m). We were seated at the table with other hikers and shared dinner and Génépi. Great evening, lovely atmosphere, and a starry night sky.
Counting stars at rifugio Citta Di Fiume.
Day 6: Rifugio Citta Di Fiume - Rifugio Tissi
The trail takes you to Passo Staulanza, a mountain road that can get quite busy in summer. We had a coffee in the rifugio there, which was very popular with bikers and cyclists. After that, you can choose whether you walk the road or take the Giro di Mount Pelmo, which takes a little longer but is obviously more scenic. We chose the latter, following the west face of Monte Pelmo and zigzagging our way to rifugio Coldai. This rifugio is beautifully located on the slopes of Monte Civetta, offering a stunning view of the Civetta peaks. We took a well-earned break here, and arrived 15 minutes later at Lago Coldai, a beautiful little alpine lake.
Lago Coldai, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Dolomites
After dipping our toes in the water, we faced what felt for us like the hardest part of the trail: The climb to rifugio Tissi (2250m). The day was coming to an end, we were feeling pretty tired and we had to climb an extra steep 150 m to get to the secluded cabin. Nevertheless, all our woes disappeared when we arrived there. Tissi truly is a magical stay! We were treated to a spectacular sunset, friendly staff, and an amazing dinner with the kindest trail friends.
After dinner, we all went outside to savour the night skies.
The heart sculpture of Rifugio Tissi at nighttime.
Day 7: Rifugio Tissi - Rifugio San Sebastiano
We said goodbye to our trail friends and left for our next stop, rifugio San Sebastiano. Descending back to the Alta Via 1, we walked along the slopes of Monte Civetta (which offers +50 climbing routes!) into the Moiazza mountains. Slowly but surely, the Civetta peaks are fading in the distance. Now, the trail isn't too rocky, which means smooth walking.
Today we make for Passo Duran, another mountain pass along the trail. We spend the night in Rifugio San Sebastiano (1605 m), a beautifully decorated chalet just alongside the road. You can seat yourself next to the crackling fireplace, perfect to read a book or write in your journal. Definitely recommend staying in this peaceful refuge.
Day 8: Rifugio San Sebastiano - Rifugio Pian de Fontana
Day 8 on trail was largely spent in the Van di Città plateau, one of the more remote areas of the Alta Via 1. It is a dream for geologists, as it shows evidence of glacial and periglacial environments, as well as karst terrain.
Straight from a fantasy novel.
Along the way, we pass Rifugio Pramperet, nestled in the west side of the Sebastian peak.
This stage of the trail makes for spectacular hiking, as you scramble up to the Forcella de Cita Zud (2400m) and are rewarded with spectacular views of valleys. These deep valleys are called Van de Zita, the home of the chamois, a special kind of goat antelope that lives in the mountains.
From there on, it is all downhill to Rifugio Pian de Fontana (1632 m). And when I say downhill, I mean really downhill. This section is quite steep and exposed. Take care of those knees and make use of your trekking poles! This mountain hut is best-known for its excellent food. We spent the last night on trail in dormitory bunk beds, basic but more than sufficient.
Day 9: Rifugio Pian de Fontana - Belluno
The last day on trail takes you to grassy meadows with marvelous views.
One last trek to Forcella Varetta, from where you make way for rifugio Bianchet. The perfect cabin to have a drink and celebrate the ending of your trek, so quaint and peaceful! Now, the path descends and slowly evolves from a rocky landscape to a wooded area. In this valley, you see gorges and overhanging cliffs, all bewildered with trees and scrubs. This is what South America looks like in my imagination. Under the cover of trees, we hear the sounds of civilizatio coming closer. Eventually, the trail leads all the way to the road near La Stanga where you can take the bus to Belluno. After 20 minutes on the bus with several other hikers, we arrive in Belluno.
3. Tips and tricks
When passing by or spending the night at one of the rifugios, be sure to try a glass of Génépi! This is an alpine plant that is typical for the region. The liquor made from this plant has a strong herbal taste but is not too sweet. Generally, one drinks Génépi after dinner or outdoor activities. You'll find Génépi in every Rifugio, where they often produce homemade recipes. Génépi usually is about 40°, the perfect nightcap after a long day of hiking!
When you decide to hike the trail in spring or fall, make sure you bring the right gear! You will probably need an ice axe and crampons, depending on the snow level. And do not forget a weeklong supply of food and your tent, as most of the mountain huts will be closed for the season.
An alternative ending would be to hike/climb all the way to Belluno. The final stretch of the trail is, however, for experts only. The difficult via ferrata takes you from Mount Schiara all the way down to Belluno. Of course, you will need the right equipment and level of skill to tackle this. Since I had neither, I took the mellow way down. ;-)