Hiking, Nature Ilse Praet Hiking, Nature Ilse Praet

Petrified Forest National Park: Tips for First Time Visitors

During our road trip from Oregon to Pennsylvania, we visited Petrified Forest National Park on an early November morning. We had only a little time to visit Petrified Forest and did not know what to expect. Well, it turned out a pleasant surprise! The vastness of the landscape and the history of the region make this national park unique.

Petrified Forest landscape

Petrified Forest might be not as vast or monumental as some of the other national parks, but it is definitely worth visiting. You are less likely to encounter the masses and will probably have a quieter experience. We loved having the park pretty much to ourselves!

What is Petrified Forest about?

Petrified Forest National Park is best known for its petrified wood - no surprise there! :) These remnants of prehistoric forests are scattered across the park. Over time, the logs crystallized into quartz, creating a beautiful rainbow effect

Petrified log
Petrified wood

The pieces of petrified wood show a wide range of colors and composition.

Fun fact: Thinking of taking one of these beauties home with you? Better think twice! First of all, it is forbidden to remove petrified wood from the park. Secondly, many visitors who did take a piece of petrified wood, have returned it ASAP! Why? Because they believed they were cursed with bad luck. The park has received piles of letters from "cursed" visitors, describing their misfortunes and expressing guilt about the theft. Ye be warned ... ☠️

Leave no Trace

As everywhere else: Leave no Trace ànd leave what you find.

If you’re looking for a souvenir, you can simply buy a piece of petrified wood in both visitor centres. The souvenirs are retrieved from private land, so less chance of being cursed!

Some highlights of the park

If you, like me, get all excited about old inscriptions, Newspaper Rock is definitely worth the stop! The name says it all: Rocks filled with over 600 petroglyphs. The Navajo name is Tse’ Hane, meaning “rock that tells a story”. The designs, carved by ancestral Puebloan people, include solar calendars, animals, and human-like creatures.

So hop out of your car and take a look! There is an overlook from where you can peer through spotting scopes and observe the petroglyphs in detail. 

Some petroglyphs of strange objects and animals.

Crystal Forest is an excellent stop if you want to take a closer look at the petrified logs. It is a short 0.8 mile-loop that brings you right to the ancient logs.

The scenic drive through the park takes you past The Tepees. You cannot miss these miniature mountains! The crazy palette of colors makes them look otherworldly.

Desert pyramids Petrified Forest

Desert pyramids in Petrified Forest.

The Painted Desert Inn is a fantastic piece of architecture! The building, built in Pueblo Revival style, blends in perfectly with its surroundings. The smooth surfaces and pink walls merge with the desert landscape. Built in the 1920s, it was very popular with Route 66 travellers. Nowadays the Inn functions as a museum and exhibition space.

Painted Desert Inn Arizona

The Painted Desert Inn, a beautifully rose-colored house.

Unfortunately, due to the return deadline for our rental car, we had no time to visit Agate House, Giant Logs Trail, and other points of interest. 

Hiking in Petrified Forest

Given the fact that Petrified Forest Nation Park is relatively small, most hiking trails are 0.5 - 2 miles long. Ideal for day hikes! If you’re looking for more solitude, there are some longer backcountry hikes. The park has a closing time, however, so make sure that you keep track of time. ⏰

Due to a lack of time, we were unable to explore Devil’s Playground. This 7 - 8 mile loop hike looks simply amazing, though! The trek takes you to isolated hoodoos, boulders, and pieces of petrified wood. There is no designated trail, plus you need to obtain a free permit at the visitor center. Definitely on my wishlist!

Camping?

Good news: The park offers a backpacking wilderness permit completely free of cost! You can easily obtain the permit from either visitor center. There is, however, no RV or car camping.

Location?

Petrified Forest National Park lies in northeastern Arizona, close to the New Mexico border. The park has two entrances, one in the north and the other in the south. Entering the park from the north takes you over the Interstate 40 and, after 28 miles, you reach the south entrance (US-180). This means you can easily visit Petrified Forest in one day.

Image: nps.gov (National Park Service)

How to get by?

There is no shuttle service or public transport. In other words, you are on your own. Hurray, freedom!

Most visitors drive the 28 miles through the park. Bicycles, E-bikes, and motorcycles are allowed as well. More interestingly, Petrified Forest has two wilderness areas where backcountry hiking only is allowed. There are no designated trails there, so you can wander at free will! To be continued…

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