Great Divide Trail Thruhike | Section A - Trail Report

A Rocky Mountains Timelapse

Start: Monument at the Canada/U.S. border in Waterton Lakes National Park, AB

End: Coleman, AB

Distance: ~150 km / 91 miles

Elevation Gain: ~ 5.600 m / 18.370 ft

Alternates: Rowe Alternate, Barnaby Alternate, Lynx Creek Alternate

Navigation: Gaia GPS & FarOut

Keywords: Windy - lots of lakes - well-maintained trail - social

Section A of the Great Divide Trail (Source: FarOut).

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Day 0: Thumbs up: We’re going to Waterton!

Not our best sign… The marker was out of ink!

After leaving the car in Calgary, trail angel Melissa dropped us off in High River, from where we hitchhiked to Waterton National Park.

Trail Angels on the Great Divide Trail

Yes, you read that correctly: There are trail angels on the GDT! Far and few between, because of the remoteness of the trail, so go and connect with them on the GDT Trail Angel Facebook page!

Our final hitchhike took us all the way to the heart of the park. There, Waterton Lake invited us for a swim. In the Tamarack outdoor store, we bought an emergency blanket for its double use as a ground sheet). After our little shopping spree, we headed for the park’s campground. The park rangers know about Great Divide Trail hikers and save some camping spots for late-arriving hikers like ourselves. Gratefully, we paid 11 CAD for a campsite and had a nice, hot shower in the washrooms (Canadian for toilet).

Day 1: Waterton Town - monument - Alderson Lake (19 km)

The first days on the GDT (Source: FarOut)

We woke up to greet a misty and magical morning. The first leg of the hike would be 6 km to the Canada/U.S.-border, where we would tag the monument and then simply turn around. A pleasant, well-defined trail along Upper Waterton Lakes brought us to the border.

The border monument

Accompanied by ripe, red thimbleberries and tourist boats, we found the border monument, existing of 1 metal and 1 stone pillar.

Standing on the dock, we witnessed two countries collide into one. The lake, ignorant of any borders, is neatly divided into Waterton National Park and Glacier National Park, the world’s first International Peace Parks. In nature, borders seem even more ludicrous. Ryan said his goodbyes to his country of stripes and stars and we started walking North on the Great Divide Trail.

Walking back, we met fellow thru-hiker, Rudy, also known by his trail name Chef. He makes beautiful videos of the trails he hikes. You can find his videos on Youtube.

The start of the Great Divide Trail can be pretty crowded. That is because Waterton town is accessible by car. Many people gather there to paddleboard, eat ice cream, or watch wildlife. Of course, we too joined the party, went for a swim, and ate some good poutine. When we finally left the pleasures of town behind to continue hiking the Great Divide Trail, we passed by the beautiful Cameron Falls.

Reenactment of Baby Simba in The Lion King.

Further away from town, uphill, the crowds soon thinned out. We walked through fireweed and half-burned trees until we reached our destination for the day. However, expecting a full campground, Alderson Lakes was entirely ours that night. Odd, since we booked the last camping permit… Turns out that empty campgrounds would be a repeating pattern in the parks.

Day 2: Alderson Lake - Akamina Campground (15 km)

The first night on the trail was a rather exciting one: My sleeping pad had a hole in it! We fixed it up with a Therm-A-Rest repair patch - lucky for me, Ryan carries a bag full of Gorilla Tape, repair patches, Super Glue, and other useful knick-knacks.

The beautifully maintained trail continued and climbed up to the lower and upper Carthew Lakes. We spotted our very first Common Loons on the Great Divide Trail. They really are fond of large alpine lakes. Blue, pristine lakes and windy weather: Waterton Lakes in a nutshell.

We met many other hikers that day, amongst them Jeff, who was section hiking the Great Divide Trail with a harmonica. He was very knowledgeable about the Great Divide Trail and a proud familyman.

After a refreshing dive into Cameron Lake with Jeff and Chef, we made our way to Akamina campground. This time, it was a full house!

Bear lockers and wooden picnic tables accommodated all GDT hikers and we spent a lovely evening, chatting, eating, and journaling.

A grizzly youngster even tried to join the party, before making his way up the hill and beyond.

Day 3: Akamina Campground - Lone Lake Campground (20 km)

Today, a serious decision lay in front of us: To Rowe Alternate or not to Rowe Alternate? We had heard many frightening stories of this unmaintained cross-country adventure, but we learned from the GDT webinars that it was a detour worthwhile. The only question remained: Are we ready to face the windy, challenging ridge walk? “Oh shoot, we’re on the Great Divide Trail, that’s what we’re here to do!” we exclaimed and started scrambling up the hill.

After a 3-hour heavy climb, we made it to the top of the ridge. But right before we could seal our victory, we were B-L-O-W-N away by the wind! Having no shelter whatsoever, we were forced into rain gear, gloves, hats, and sunglasses. We looked like Neo and Trinity from the Matrix and had to fight for every step we took. After 2 km, we decided to take the blue pill and bail!

Scrambling down

But adventure time was far from over! To get off the ridge, a snow cornice and a super steep, long scramble down awaited us. We stumbled, cross-country style, down the mountain slope to Rowe Lake. There, Ryan taught me how to “ski “ down gravel slopes, without skies, that is…

It was past noon by that time and we still had some ways to go. Back on the official Great Divide Trail, we climbed to Lineham Ridge, a pretty spectacular viewpoint. Once we turned around the corner, the wind chased us down the trail pretty quickly. The rest of the afternoon, we waded through scorched forests and grave burn scars. We had a permit for Twin Lakes, but after our windy and rather lengthy escapade, our tired feet could carry us no longer. At dusk, we set up camp at Lone Lake instead and enjoyed the silence.

The bright side of burns

Burn areas are fertile grounds for fireweed and new grasses, making room for butterfly and insect families. Every down has an up...

Day 4: Lone Lake Campground - Jutland Creek (20 km)

The next morning, Ryan and I slept in until 7:30 - yikes! We never were early birds, and getting up usually involves a lot of snoozing and coffee. Our morning eventually evolved into a heart-warming and honest conversation with fellow hikers Lynnie and Sophie. Mother and daughter, exploring their strong connection and shared admiration of the natural world around them.

Sophie spoke of the abundance of flowers on the Great Divide Trail, and it couldn’t be more true. Day four absolutely spoiled us with flower-filled fields, the exquisite perfume of newly-sprung buds and bees buzzing around them.

We met the first horse lords on trail, too! A family of four was on their way to Lone Lake Cabin. Our respect for equestrians - or horse lords - yes, we listened to LOTR audiobooks - increased with tenfold during this journey. It has become somewhat of a dream of our own. One day!

Our lunch spot was at Twin Lakes, where Ryan had a cold swim session. The weather soon turned and we prepared for the worst. We climbed a ridge and left Waterton Lakes National Park behind us. In the distance, big black smoke plumbs rose up and we could smell the wildfire. Pretty scary to experience a fire this way, makes you think of the scale of everything.

The smoke turned orange-red…

and soon, every notion of a horizon was wiped out. So we hiked on, into the void. I wasn’t comfortable, but Ryan reassured me of our safety. We entered the realm of Castle Provincial Park, where the sky cleared up and visibility returned. We camped at Jutland Creek with Lynnie, Sophie, and their friend Barb.

Day 5: Jutland Creek - Grizzly Lake (16 km)

Calling for help looks like this!

Day four turned out to be quite interesting. Today was the day of the notorious La Coulotte Ridge and the even more infamous Barnaby alternate! Clueless of what lay ahead of us, we started our day over Scarpe Pass and along the steep ridge to the peak of La Coulotte. After two false summits and lots of cursing, we finally made it to the real deal! Mind you, this ridgeline is pretty exposed and does not have much water or room for mistakes. We hoisted ourselves onto the peak and signed the trail register. While recovering, don’t forget to look around you: There are sublime 360° mountain views.

Next up? That would be the Barnaby Alternate - the very word alone still gives me the chills. This alternate would prove to be a time-consuming, challenging, route-finding scramble. Luckily, thanks to the GDTA members, there are flags around the scariest bits.

I wrote the following excerpt in my diary:

“The alternate totally wiped me out. Following a game trail, sometimes fully disappearing, then popping up again after some time. Ridgewalking is what it was. Up and down the hill, up and down the next one - I lost count after a while. I still felt quite cheerful, but when we consulted the map and I saw that we barely managed 1 mile per hour, I broke down. Lesson learned: Some things take time and you cannot fight it. So don’t try.”

Alternates take time, patience, and some courage, too. This was something I heavily underestimated. But I am very grateful for the experience and now, I find myself a lot stronger, more capable, and knowledgeable in rough terrain.

Sliding down doesn’t always come easy.

We skied (read: tumbled) down the gravelly trail towards Grizzly Lake, home to of a pair of Loons and, according to multiple wooden constructions, the occasional bushcrafter. Barb, Sophie, and Lynnie came rolling into camp not soon after and they too slept on the shores of Grizzly Lake.

Day 6: Grizzly Lake - Lynx Creek (34 km)

Time for a big push today. We were ready to get off the ridge and back to the trail.

An early-morning deer encounter, one of many.

After one week, your trail legs start to show. They grow stronger, and your pace picks up. Hiking up and down is part of your every day now, and you start to get the hang of it.

Bighorn Sheep

The last part of the Barnaby Alternate holds some beautiful memories.

We bagged some incredible peaks with fun trail registers (Fireball!) and met a large family of Bighorn Sheep after getting lost and trying to find our way back. Every down has an up…

Finally, the last cairn was in sight and a long, exposed descent led us to the three Barnaby Lakes. We greeted many hikers and fishers, and considered having a swim but went for a small dip instead. All the way down into the valley we crossed a road - the first sign of “civilization” - and disappeared into the woodlands. I remember eating thimbleberries until our fingers turned red, and filling up fresh water at Suicide Creek - scary, intriguing name. With relative ease, we climbed the hill and made our way on the relatively new trail into the dusk.

Day 7: Lynx Creek - Coleman (30 km)

The last day of the first section took us through cow country. Lynx Creek Campground (self-registration, +/- 21 CAD) had more cows than people in it. We ended up hiking in a bicycle race, which was really fun, since A) we were not the only ones suffering in the heat and B) we were sometimes faster going uphill and C) we had our first trail magic! A friend of one participant handed us Cokes and cookies and we were unbelievably grateful - trail magic is rare in the remote Rockies.

The last 10 km or so are ATV country. All drivers were very polite and immediately slowed down for us. Hiking, however, felt slow. After what seemed like an eternity, especially without four wheels, the first houses of Crowsnest Pass popped up in sight. Finally, we staggered into Coleman’s Subway and devoured one footlong (Chicken Teriyaki) each. We checked into our Airbnb and watched “Pretty Woman” until we fell asleep.

Interested in our GDT Gear Lists?

- Kodak’s Gear List

- Cinnamon’s Gear List

- Both our Pack Lists for the GDT

Coleman & accomodation

Finding a place to sleep in Coleman shouldn’t be too hard. For B&Bs, there are Safe Haven (We do not know if they will be open in 2023) and Country Encounters. The Paddock Inn is also a hiker’s favorite.

Section A: Complete!

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Thanks for reading! Feel free to leave any questions or comments.

Back Home… Wherever That May Be.

After 7 months on the road, we are back in Belgium. Initially, I wrote "back home", but home has become such a fluid concept over the last few years.

I have always been very lucky to live in beautiful homes amongst family and dear friends. That is all you could wish for... right?

But for a couple of years now, I developed some sort of bug, that now lives comfortably in the back of my mind. Back then, however, it scared the hell out of me. It constantly pointed me to the fact that somehow, I was missing out. There was a part of me, a longing lingering undiscovered, and I was terrified of exploring it. I knew it would be like opening Pandora’s box - and there would be no way back.

So, I resisted and decorated my life in the best way possible. I went to work 5 times a week, turned my bedroom into a green tunnel of books and magic, and frequently indulged in long, hot bath sessions with a good book: In other words, I did everything I could to adjust to life as we know it. And hope it would be enough.

But all around me, friends and acquaintances made personal progress. Whether that included starting a family, building a business and a house, or focusing on their careers: They made a choice. And I was envious: I wanted to choose, too.

So, I chose myself. Being 25 at the time, it was about time to wake up that part of myself that I did not dare stir. And that might have been the biggest step I ever took in my life. Filled with hope, excitement, gratitude, fears, and a fast-beating heart - I jumped. After that, anything was possible now.

Time to say my goodbyes, time to leave home behind.

And that is how I dove into the dreadful, intrinsic system of permits and passports, covid-laws and international flights. My personal belongings were boxed up and the city was notified of my absence. I was free.

A couple of weeks later, I set foot on the Pacific Crest Trail in Washington. At last, I knew and understood: This was it.

Feelings of infinite happiness, of belonging. Finally, I had found home. Moreover, I would find someone whose home it was, too. And together, we climbed hills, swam in cold lakes, and swatted pesky mosquitos. It was our home now.

Our home changed every night: From campsites in the deep forests of Washington, to sleeping under the stars in Oregon parks and sandy beaches on the Oregon Coast Trail. From Walmart parking lots, state park campgrounds and hot springs to long stretches of desert and beautiful BLM lands. Whether we slept amongst desert, sand, rock, or trees: I never felt more at home.

After several months of adventuring, I took the plane back to Belgium. Back home? Not entirely. I remember a heavy feeling upon returning to my home country, once so safe and comfortable. I know the rules, the language, the public transport, the tv shows, our many failures, and numerous benefits. I know every little piece of the puzzle that is my little country, and I hold it dear. And yet, returning felt like a daunting task. It also meant separation from Ryan, who stayed behind in the U.S.

That winter, I worked for 4 months in a Red Cross refugee center. I missed my partner in crime and I missed that part of myself that I finally allowed to be free. But as Simon & Garfunkel once sang, April Come She Will…

And April was the month when I sold half of my stuff, put the other half in boxes again, and hopped back on a plane across the ocean. The plan was that there was no plan.

Ryan picked me up in the airport of Las Vegas. Customs was not exactly happy upon my arrival: "No job? No home? No plans? Well, missy...What do you think you are doing?" My point exactly. After some interrogation, they finally let me enter the United States. And off we went.

Now, seven months later, we are back in Belgium! Back home? Who knows. We now know; Home is quite a fluid concept. We are moving into a beautiful house in Bruges with a wonderful roommate. A whole new adventure for Ryan and myself: Living domesticated lives for a bit! We swap catholes for a flushing toilet and a climbing crash pad for a bed. Living here offers us a place to rest, process the adventures of the past year, and make plans for the future... Wherever that may be.

Whether it is a mountain cabin, a lakeshore campground, a Walmart parking lot, the trunk of a car, a cheap motel 6, or a house in Bruges - I now know:

“… when we have learned how to listen to trees, then the brevity and the quickness and the childlike hastiness of our thoughts achieve an incomparable joy. Whoever has learned how to listen to trees no longer wants to be a tree. He wants to be nothing except what he is. That is home. That is happiness.”

(Herman Hesse in Bäume: Betrachtungen und Gedichte)

Housesitting | What is it and how does it work?

Ryan and I have always been on the lookout for different ways of traveling (Read: traveling on a budget). That is one of the many reasons why we love vanlife. Ryan has lived on the road, in one way or another, for the last ten years. Since April ‘22, I have officially joined the party.

Living out of the van is an incredible experience. Not only does it bring a strong sense of freedom, but it also takes you to the more remote places in the backcountry…

… But every now and then, the need for more comfort pops up. Sometimes, we need a break from the road.

Disadvantages of Vanlife

You see, living outside is not all sunshine and rainbows. Especially vanlife can be difficult and stressful at times. From being subjected to the elements - rain, snow, wind, heat, and cold - to simple burnout from the never-ending demand of chores: When you live in your car, everything requires a million steps to do anything.

Never mind technical problems, on the lookout for trash bins, public toilets, showers, and strong Wi-Fi… Vanlife has been a conscious choice and has worked out well, but every now and then, we feel the need to recharge.

Looking for a Place to Recharge - free of charge...

You can, of course, book hotel rooms and Airbnb’s. They provide much-needed breaks from life on the road and offer a place to clean up, rest, and recharge. They are not cheap, however, and stays over time really add up and drain the budget. So that is why Ryan and I started looking for alternatives. We know, and love, the concept of couch-surfing, but as a couple, it sure is nice to have some privacy now and then. Surely, there must be another way?

Turns out that there is another way: Housesitting and pet sitting. It is exactly as the name reveals: Pet owners want to travel and are looking for people to watch their pets and their home. Et voila - both parties are satisfied. While their animals and house are looked after, we get showers, Netflix and chill, laundry, and a real kitchen. Win-win!

What is “housesitting” and what exactly do you do?

With my two favourite sisters, Maggie & Hazel.

Your biggest responsibility is taking care of the pets. In most cases, we’re talking about regular pets, like cats, dogs, and bunnies. When you have agreed on a housesit, the owners will then inform you of the nitty-gritty: How many times do I walk the dog? How many strokes does the cat want? How many carrots for the bunny?

It is also helpful to gather information about the pets’ medical history, sleeping patterns, and crazy habits. We learned this the hard way when all of a sudden two large dogs crawled up into our bed, leaving no room for us.

Unique Experiences

You see, we take our job as pet sitters very seriously.

Every once in a while, you can find pretty unique homes and pets. For example, a housesit in the countryside can take you to a beautiful farm or yurt. There are also many housesits in big cities, which would significantly help lower your travel costs. Sometimes, the pets are quite exotic: You could be keeping an eye on turtles, fish, or parakeets. Or farm animals, such as chickens, donkeys, horses, and goats could be your responsibility. A whole new level of housesitting, but a unique experience, to say the least.

Other Responsibilities

Quality time with young Millie.

Some owners will also ask you to take care of small, domestic jobs, such as watering the plants, collecting the mail, or putting the trash out. And naturally, you clean and tidy up the house before the owners return.

Relationship with the Owners

After several housesits, our experience has been mostly positive. We still keep in touch with some house owners, and we are always welcome to visit or housesit again. Sometimes, they will show you their appreciation with a bottle of wine or take you out for dinner. Not always, though, as everyone is different. But truth be told, it is nice to feel appreciated for the work you do. After all, you are taking care of their sweethearts, keeping the house clean, the mailbox empty and the plants alive.

Our Experience with Housesitting

This year, we have enjoyed 4 housesits, ranging from a couple of days up to two weeks. Our first housesit was in the desert of Nevada this spring, watching two small Shitzus, Maggie and Hazel. The owners were a retired couple, and they were true rockstars. They welcomed us into their home with drinks in the backyard. They treated us like family and took us out to dinner. We felt at ease immediately. They left their phone numbers and 4 bottles of wine. Maggie and Hazel, too, turned out to be great characters and amazing company. We took the time to explore the area, start our own company, and make future plans. All in the safe comfort of a home, 2 puppers and 4 bottles of wine. Needless to say, our first experience with housesitting was nothing but amazing.

Hard knock cat life.

In May, we looked after 2 cats and the sweetest dog in Colorado and in June, we watched over Marnie the cat in the mountains of Arizona. This was a unique and peaceful treehouse, complete with a hot tub, shelves of interesting books, and a wonderful patio. We felt a strong connection with both the owners and the house. Marnie, too, turned out to be the sweetest and fluffiest cat you could possibly imagine. Our stay here was healing and restorative in many ways.

Our Calgary Housesit

After 2 months of thru hiking the Canadian Rockies, this was the perfect way to sleep, catch up on work and make future plans.. Plus enjoy some puppy love from these two babies.

Now it’s your turn!

How do I start housesitting?

Housesitting happens everywhere! The service is offered worldwide, so all that rests you is to find the right platform. There is the infamous Caretaker Gazette (very old-school) - and you can always scour social media and newspapers for any applications.

But there are also several platforms where you can sign up as a housesitter and find housesitting jobs all around the world. We use Trusted Housesitters, an app that matches those looking for a house with those who need someone to look after their property and pets. You sign up, look for the location where you are or want to go, and can apply for the housesit you like most. (No, this is not an affiliate or commercial. Just some advice :))

Other well-known platforms are Nomador and Pawshake, of which we have heard good things of, but have no experience with ourselves.

Is housesitting for free?

Usually, it is not. Most platforms charge a yearly fee, and unfortunately, that fee grows more expensive every year. However, it is still a bunch cheaper than paying for rooms or Airbnb’s every night. There are some ways to get a discount, by making your friends become a member for example. When you live on the road full-time, it is (in our opinion) worth the cost.

Can I earn money while housesitting?

In theory, yes! But the platforms mentioned strongly discourage asking for money. They see it as a service platform for both parties. However, we personally think that it should be negotiable. Some housesits are actually a lot of work (think several dogs or multiple animals, a large house and property, …) and that is why getting paid is something you might be able to discuss with some owners.

Are there disadvantages to housesitting?

You have agreed to stay in a house, which means you cannot leave the home and the pets alone for too long. That means that there are no overnighters elsewhere or long excursions. The pets are your responsibility and must be taken care of. This might interrupt some wild plans you had during your stay, so keep that in mind.

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We hope this article helped you on the topic of housesitting and pet sitting. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to reach out!

Backpacking Food | Bushka’s Kitchen

Backpacking food: There’s a lot to be said on the topic. For us, it’s quite easy: We like our backcountry meals light, affordable, easy, tasty, and nutritious. Sounds familiar? ;-)

For long outdoor adventures, we usually stack up on ramen, mashed potatoes, and Knorr rice and pasta sides. But every now and then, we indulge in proper backpacking food, if only to support all the amazing local & food-conscious companies out there. That is why we were thrilled to be working together with Bushka’s Kitchen for our 2022 adventure of the Great Divide Trail in Canada.

We carried Bushka’s meals for our first two weeks of the Great Divide Trail. From the start, we were thrown into the Canadian Rockies and faced daily elevation gains of 1500 m (5,000 ft), scrambly ridge walks, and 12 hour-hiking days. So, needless to say, we needed all the calories and fats we could get. When you are scrambling on steep, rugged terrain, you can easily burn up to 900 calories/hr. That means it is necessary to pay attention to what and how much you eat. Bushka’s meals are full of fats and proteins: Just what you need for your backcountry adventure!

Whereas most backpacking meals take about 8 to 10 minutes to prepare, Bushka’s dinners require only 3 minutes of waiting time. The perfect time to blow up your sleeping pad or switch to your camp socks! We found the portions to be generous, and we happily shared a meal every night, together with some couscous or ramen.

The bags are lightweight, can be used as meal pouches, and are easily reused as garbage bags. Oh, and the colors are fun, too. What’s not to like?

Entrées | Venison, Bison or Vegetarian: Choose your Pick

Ryan and I used to eat plant-based, but over the last few years, we prefer to eat meat and fish again. That is why we absolutely loved the Hunter’s Pie. The taste of the ground venison together with mashed potatoes, carrots and peas was amazing. A true comfort meal, heartwarming and just what you need after a long, exhaustive day. Hunter’s Pie proudly boasts 780 cal. and 33g of protein.

Attention, meat lovers: If this made your ears ring, be sure to try the Hearty Harvest. This hearty meal has it all: Wild boar (?!), creamy mushroom basmati rice, apple chunks, and green beans. Yep, this is fine dining in the backcountry. This meal has about 570 cal. and 30g of protein in it. For the Italian fans, there is the Unstuffed Pepper, a true Italian dish with San Marzano tomato sauce, espresso-salted bison (yes, bison), bell peppers, green onion & quinoa. With 570cal and 31g of protein, this dish will make you want to move mountains.

The vegetarian options are pretty impressive, too. There’s the risottos’ and chilis that we all know, but Bushka’s changes the game and introduced us to the Zesty Zoodles and Lentil Lunch. The Zesty Zoodles (540 cal, 11g protein) does not only have a funky name, but is also a funky dish! It is a pasta dish with chunks of zucchini and cherry tomatoes, but it is the avocado sauce with a twist of lemon that makes this entrée very interesting. Refreshing, to say the least.

We loved to have the Lentil Lunch for, well, lunch! It was a nice break from the ramen and peanut-butter-wraps. After 3 minutes of cold-soaking, you had yourself a healthy lentil meal, spiced up by dill vinaigrette, cucumbers, apple, onion, and bell peppers. A really refreshing lunch on trail, perfect for a quick lunch break. With 600 cal and 29g of protein, you are fuelled up for the rest of the day.

If you’re a potato lover, then the Sweet Potato Mash and Mashed Potatoes are your go-to. The Mashed Potatoes tasted creamy and buttery and easily serve to 2 people. The Sweet Potato Mash was spiced with cinnamon (that’s me!), clove and Vermon maple syrup, giving it a surprisingly sweet touch.

What are our favorites?

Easy question: The Yogurt Bowls, Banana Bites and the Hearty Harvest stole our hearts!

While we usually are not the biggest breakfast fans on trail - we like to sleep in - we did manage to get up a little earlier for Bushka’s Yogurt Bowls. You can choose between Raspberries & Almond Granola and Blueberries & Coconut Granola. Both have Dahi whole milk yoghurt, organic oats, and maple syrup. Just fill up the bag with cold water, let it soak for 3 minutes - et voilà! In late summer, you can even pluck some wild berries and spice up your yogurt bowl. The Yogurts boast 570 cal. and 21g of protein each.

True, dried banana chips are a classic when it comes to backpacking snacks. Yet, Bushka’s Banana Bites (110 cal, 1g protein) are simple and yet so good. The bites melt in your mouth, taste fresh and natural, plus they make an excellent combo with the Yogurt Bowls and Rice Puddin’!

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Blog sponsored by Bushka’s Kitchen

The End of the GDT | Back to life, back to reality…

And so our journey in the Canadian wilderness has come to an end. On September 24th, somewhere around noon, Ryan and I stumbled onto Highway 16 between Prince George and McBride. The food was all gone, water bottles were nearly empty and our brains foggy. We started sticking our thumbs out, and much to our surprise, we got picked up within 5 minutes.

We’re no strangers to hitchhiking.

Two days before, we reached the official end of the Great Divide Trail in Kakwa Provincial Park. At km 1095, you reach Kakwa Lake and its wooden cabin, a magnificent end to a magnificent hike… But unless you have fancy friends with a float plane, you still need to hike another 100 km to exit the remote park and catch a ride on Hwy 16. Kakwa Park is accessible by foot, bike, or horse only. No cars or ATVs allowed: The park promotes pure, untouched wilderness.

Our first driver, 90-some years of age, didn’t exactly pull over, but stopped in the middle of the road. He beckoned us to come in and put our packs in the car. Semi-trucks were driving by, angrily honking their horns, but our dear driver did not seem to care nor hear it. Originally from the U.K., he moved to Canada 70 years ago and loved it. He dropped us off at an old-school diner in McBride, where we indulged in the most amazing burgers and poutine. About 6 coffee refills later, we were fuelled up for the next leg of the journey. Although the hiking part was officially over, we still had + 500 highway kilometers to cover.

Hitchhiking in 2022

During our entire GDT adventure, we had over 20 hitches! Our conclusion? We are all just people in the end, and being kind to others is truly the coolest thing you can do - even in 2022.

Hitchhiking in Canada has been quite an adventure. Not only is hitchhiking pretty rare in 2022 - “we’re not living in the hippie 60s anymore” - but some highways don’t even allow picking up hitchhikers! Good thing that some people are still rebels and just want to help another human out. So in the end, we always had a ride out and were fortunate to meet people from all different walks of life.

One of our driver friends & his white truck.

After an hourlong wait in McBride, an A&W cook and his manager picked us up, gave us chocolate to munch on, and conveniently dropped us off in the direction of Jasper, where our third driver, a hard-working First Nation Saskatchewanian picked us up. He generously bought us food in KFC and drove us all the way to Hinton. The next day, a kind banker lady drove us to Edmonton. We listened to country music and talked about banks, dogs, and crazy technology. It was her first time picking up hitchhikers. We think she might do it again.

Hitching to the start of the GDT. Yes, the Sharpie was near-empty.

Hitchhiking after finishing the Great Divide Trail made our return to the “real world” gradual and gentle. However, it still feels like a shock. After a long period of solitude and simplicity, society and its multitude of impulses, people, smells, and sounds can be quite overwhelming.

Posing with our guardian angel

- made by Lynnie Wonfor

But we were lucky to spend a couple of nights with the Wonfors, the kindest and most caring family in Calgary. We learned again that connecting with the right people can be healing, too. ❤

So, what’s on the menu for October? Basically, editing and writing until we drop. After a two-week housesit and taking care of two dogs, we will hit the road again in mid-October. First, we head south to Phoenix for work in the desert. After that, we drive another 2,000 miles to Pittsburgh, where we meet up with Ryan’s family. We’ll say our goodbyes to the van and welcome a new chapter in Belgium… Aloha!

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“So was I once myself a swinger of birches.

And so I dream of going back to be.

It’s when I’m weary of considerations,

And life is too much like a pathless wood

Where your face burns and tickles with the cobwebs

Broken across it, and one eye is weeping

From a twig’s having lashed across it open.

I'd like to get away from earth awhile

And then come back to it and begin over.”

(Excerpt from Robert Frosts’ Birches)

Packlist for Great Divide Trail- 2022

Hey y’all! Here’s our gear list for the Great Divide Trail. Feel free to shoot us any questions or comments you have. Happy trails!

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Ryan’s Gear List:

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Pack & Poles:

Pack: LiteAF Ultra 40L Curve Full Suspension

Trekking Poles: Black Diamond Distance Carbon Trekking Poles

Camera Bag: HMG Camera Pod (small), REI Trail 5 Waist Pack (w/ camera insert), Peak Design Capture Clip

Sleep:

Tent (carried by Ilse!): Zpacks Duplex

Quilt: Enlightened Equipment 20˚ Enigma

Sleeping Pad: Thermarest NeoAir XL

Pillow: Sea to Summit Aeros Premium Pillow

Food & Water:

Filter: Katadyn Be-free

Bottles: 1.5L Smart Water x2

Bladder (for filter): HydraPak 2L Seeker

Food Bag: LiteAF FLAT BOTTOM BEAR BAG  (LARGE)

Pot: MLD 950 ml Titanium Pot

Spork: Sea-to-summit Alpha Light Long Spork

Stove: MSR Pocket Rocket 2

Lighter: Bic Mini

Electronics / Camera:

Phone: iPhone 12mini

Headphones: Apple AirPods Pro

Watch: Garmin Fenix 6X

“Computer:” iPad Air (gen4) w/ apple pencil; 2x SSD’s, cables, SD card reader dongle

Camera: Sony A7C + Rocket Blower, lens cloths, 3x 128GB SD Cards, Peak Designs Capture Clip

Lenses: Sony 20mm 1.8G, Sony 50mm 2.5G, Tamron 70-180mm 2.8

Microphone: Rode VideoMic NTG

Tripod: Job Gorilla Pod Pro 3k

Battery Bank: Anker PowerCore Essential 20000 PD (18W)

Chargers: Anker USB-C Nano (20W) x3; charging cables (iPhone, micro, USB-C x2, Garmin)

Headlamp: Petzl Tikka w/ core rechargeable battery

Clothes:

Shorts: Nike Challenger Running Shorts (w/ pockets!)

Shoes: Salomon X Ultra 3 Mid GTX

Shirt: Synthetic T-shirt

Rain Jacket: Outdoor Research Helium

Puffy: Enlightened Equipment Torrid Vest (7D)

Wind Pants: Enlightened Equipment Copperfield Wind Pants

Socks: 3x Darn Tough

Hoodie: Sky Goat CAMP hoodie

Base Layer Pant: Patagonia lightweight

Hat: Buff (many purpose!)

Sun Sleeves: REI

Misc:

Hygiene: Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, sunscreen, body glide, chapstick, TP

Shovel: Duece of Spades

Knife: Swiss Army Classic

Bear: Bear Spray, 3mm Accessory Cord (bear hangs)

First Aid / Repair: Gorilla Tape (~3m), Tenacious Tape, Patch kit (Sleeping Pad), Ibuprofen, Gauze / Bandages,

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Ilse’s Gear List

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Pack & Poles:

Pack: Osprey Eja 48

Trekking poles: Black Diamond Trail Ergo Cork

Fanny Pack: Decathlon

Sleep:

Tent: Zpacks Duplex (carried by me :) )

Sleeping Bag: Western Mountaineering Versalite

Sleeping Pad: Therm-a-Rest Neoair XLite

Food & Water:

Filter: Sawyer Squeeze

Water bladder: Platypus

Food bag: Ursack

Pot: Toaks Titanium 750 ML

Spork: Sea-To-Summit Delta

Stove: MSR Pocket Rocket 2

Electronics

Phone: Samsung Galaxy A22

Headlamp: Petzl Actik Core

Battery Bank: Anker PowerCore Essential 20000 PD (18W)

Clothes:

Bandana: Buff

Shoes: Salewa Alp Trainer 2

Underwear: Icebreaker + Decathlon

Socks: Darn Tough 2x + Injinji

Bra: Patagonia Barely Everyday

Base layers: Icebreaker 200

Puffy: Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer

Rain Jacket: Outdoor Research Helium

Skirt: Patagonia Tech Skort

Shirt: Columbia Silver Ridge Long Sleeve

Hoodie: Skygoat USA

Misc:

Hygiene: Toilet paper, Deuce of Spades, Superglue, Ibuprofen, Kula Cloth, toothbrush + paste

Bear: Bear Spray, 3mm Accessory Cord (bear hangs)

Gloves + hat: Decathlon Fleece

Hiking in Glacier’s Backcountry

July is blooming time for the yellow Glacier lily.

Visiting Glacier National Park in the summertime? Yep, it is just as busy as it sounds! With over 3 million visitors a year, Glacier is one of the most popular National Parks in the U.S. That means traffic lines, vehicle reservations, and full parking lots. Nevertheless, don’t let this get in your way of spending time in one of the wildest and most authentic parks of all.

Two Ocean Glacier

High up north in Montana lie these glacial wonderlands that inspire so many. Not surprisingly, Montana is known as “Big Sky” state or - my personal favorite - “The Land of Shining Mountains”. Established in 1910, the park was home to over 100 glaciers. Today, that amount has shrunk to roughly two dozen - and the glaciers keep getting smaller.

Family Time

My dearest cousin Meike!

We met up with my cousin Meike, who came all the way from Belgium to visit us! We picked her up at the train station in West-Glacier, where the Amtrak stops on its way from Seattle to Chicago. It was her first time visiting the U.S., and my first visitor from Belgium! Needless to say, I was really happy to have her with us on this trip. 

Glacier Campgrounds

The first couple of nights, we camped at Two Medicine Lake and Apgar. Both campgrounds in the west are excellently run by the Park Service. We paid about $20 a night, and enjoyed the facilities that came with it. We watched bighorn sheep licking coals from the fire pits, swam in Lake McDonald, and waited for the Going-To-The-Sun Road to open up. Officially the scenic road’s latest opening, snowplough crews managed to complete the job on July 13th. The park gets snow almost year-round, and its mountain peaks are still snowcapped throughout summer.

How to get Backcounty Permits in Glacier

Longing for some peace and quiet, we decided it was time to put on our backpacks and escape the crowds and reservation systems… Just kidding: Camping in a national park requires planning and reservations, too! Not our strongest asset, but we made it work. :)

Working our way through the yellow Glacier lilies.

We headed to the backcountry office in Apgar village in the wee hours of the morning. Turns out that most camping permits were already gone, but we happily settled for the last remaining permits, made our way to the shuttle bus, and started the hike!

Moose antlers in the woods.

PS: If you are, just like us, pretty last-minute and in need of camping permits, you will want to get there early, too! Glacier’s backcountry office opens up at 7:30 AM, but it gets very busy during summer. Combined with the fact that you need a vehicle registration - which we did not have -, we got to the office at 5:30 AM… Only to find out that there were already 3 other hikers waiting in line! Speaking of dedication :-)

Itinerary of the hike

Day 1: Loop Trailhead - Granite Park (4.2 miles)

Followed the popular trail up to the beautiful Granite Chalet. No liquor license, alas, so no beers or any other drinks here. But you are rewarded with a million-dollar view and lots of friendly people.

Time to rest after our first day of hiking

The campground is just half a mile away, tucked away between the trees. There’s a stream and a pole to hang your food. Oh, and a very nice pit toilet.

A pit toilet with a view.

Day 2: Granite Park - Flattop Mountain (9.9 miles)

We hiked all the way back down, which was way easier than going up. Then we set out for the other side of the valley, following McDonald Creek and eventually crossing it to the other side. There’s a cool suspension bridge. We went up, slowly but surely, up the hill until we could no longer see nor hear the road. Thick brushes and thousands of wildflowers embraced us as we followed the trail.

Seeking shelter in our tents.

Eventually, beautiful waterfalls greeted us - along with swarms of mosquitos. Time for head nets, rain gear, and Deet spray! This campsite, too, has a pole, a nice privy, and nearby water sources.

Day 3: Flattop Mountain - Stony Indian Lake (14.5 miles)

Running away from the mosquito’s the next morning, we stopped for nothing or no one. We did notice, however, large amounts of bear scat… Could this mean something?

Around noon, we were admiring a young male elk, when all of a sudden, a bush on my right looked a little… hairy. I squinted my eyes - as I often do - to see what it was… And it was a Grizzly cub! First, we were complete in awe and in love with the playful, furry cub… But then it dawned on us: Where’s mom?? And at once, mama bear came out of the bushes and guided her cub safely away from us. A beautiful, intimate, and precious encounter.

The afternoon turned out to be pretty spicey: We encountered many snow patches, some snow bridges, and lots of bushwhacking. So, we sang and clapped our way through the dense bushes and ferns, to scare no bears or other animals. But in turn, we got scared when we smelled the scent of death… Right on the trail, there was a mountain goat carcass, half-eaten and decayed. After that, we clapped even more loudly and vigorously and rushed our way to Stony Indian Lake: A beautiful alpine lake, where we plunged in the icy cold water and ate dinner alongside lively mosquitos and ground squirrels.

Day 4: Stony Indian Lake - Fifty Mountains (8.2 miles)

An easy day back to Fifty Mountains Campground, which we passed the previous day. We took a nap in the fields full of Glacier Lilies and read some poetry. Meike spotted singing Western toads in the melting snow puddles.

North of the campsite, we passed the remains of an old backcountry patrol cabin. A peaceful day and night…

The hills are alive… ♫

… which turned into a heavy storm with thunder, lightning, and rain that same night. We got out of the tents to stake them deeper into the ground and looked up to the sky, shiveringly. We were in the hands of Thor now, nothing more we could do…

But we survived! And the creepy sound just outside of our tent? That was a deer passing by, licking up our pee. The deer here just love pee for its salt.

Thank you, Glacier, for a full and rich experience. If you have the chance, go out there! It's worth the trouble and the wait.

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Thanks for reading!

10 Cool Adventures in Death Valley National Park

While the name “Death Valley” may evoke images of a barren and dead landscape, the park actually brims with life! True, Death Valley absolutely is one of the hottest and driest places on earth. The park is a desert valley in the truest sense of the word, defined by record-high temperatures and little to no rainfall. But despite those extremities, Death Valley boasts life and biodiversity: From Hot Springs and Sand Dunes to salt flats, canyons, and mountain peaks! Bring your sunhat, plenty of water, and your sense of adventure: Death Valley awaits you.

How to visit Death Valley

Location

Death Valley lies in Eastern California, close to neighboring Nevada. Bordering the Mojave Desert and the Great Desert Basin, it doesn’t get more desert than Death Valley. The valley is closed in by the Amargosa Range on the East and the Panamint Range on the West. In geology, this is called a graben.

The park is only a two-hour drive away from Las Vegas, something many tourists and roadtrippers take advantage of.

“The Death Valley…”

Death Valley owes its ominous name to a tragic pioneer’s tale: According to legend, a group of 49’ers (settlers driven by the California Gold Rush in 1849) wanting to take a shortcut, got stuck and lost in the valley. Suffering from the heat, exhaustion, and lack of water, the group found themselves in a precarious situation. One of them eventually perished, and his famous last words were: “Goodbye Death Valley…” - Et voila!

At first glance, you may think of the park as a desolate place. True, there are no lush forests, raging rivers, or green fields of grass. But take a closer look and see: Death Valley is alive… be it in a slightly unusual way. Usually, one would visit a National Park in summertime or springtime, during the day. But Death Valley requires a different approach: The wildlife and the starry sky come alive during the night! Moreover, the best season to visit this park is literally anytime but summer.

Interesting Facts & Figures

Death Valley is the 5th largest National Park in the US, topped only by 4 Alaskan parks. With over 3 million acres, visitors have to drive pretty long distances from one point to another. So, fill up your tank before you go and crank up the AC, because Death Valley happens to be the driest and hottest place in North America! The park has witnessed many record-high temperatures over the years, recording Earth’s hottest air temperature ever (134 F or 56.7 C!) in 1913.

We loved having a paper map of the area for hikes and drives.

PS: There is a gas station in Death Valley, but our advice is to get gas outside the park. The station is pretty pricey, especially considering the recent increase in gas prices. As of March 2022, prices in Death Valley were $8.75/gallon. Yikes.

Best time to visit Death Valley?

Death Valley temps in October: Very bearable.

Without question, the best time to visit Death Valley National Park is anytime but summertime. During the summer months, the temps are between 110 - 120 F… Doesn’t sound very appealing, does it? December turns out to be the valley’s coldest month, which is why many people visit in fall and winter. We spent 5 days in Death Valley last October. It was not too crowdy and daytime temps were around 80-85F.

10 Cool Adventures in Death Valley

1. Explore Dante’s View

Dante’s View by sunset.

This is a real classic. Dante’s View can easily be reached by car, which makes it a popular spot. The parking lot might be crowded with cars and people, especially during sunrise and sunset hours. But you can escape the crowds easily by following a small social trail, going up towards Mount Perry (5,716 ft). A short climb soon takes you to a more private overlook of the valley, where you can enjoy the sunset all by yourself.

2. Spot Pup Fish in Salt Creek

Desert fish, you say? That’s right. It sounds paradoxical, but it’s true: Cottonball Marsh and Salt Creek are the only places on earth where you find the Death Valley Pup Fish! As you can imagine, Death Valley is an extremely harsh environment, especially for these endangered small fish. As desert dwellers, they reside in the seasonal stream that makes up Salt Creek. When the river runs dry, they have no choice but to reside in small pools. Besides drought, they also put up with salt water, heavy floodings, and drastic temperature swings.

Why the name “pupfish”? Because of their playfulness and liveliness in their breeding season. These fish are not only hardy and tough but also playful and randy! Hell yeah. All things considered; Death Valley Pupfish are the coolest! Go and say hi to them.

3. From the lows of Badwater Basin…

When it comes to breaking records, Death Valley National Park scores significantly high: It is recognized as the driest, hottest, and lowest place in North America! Large parts of the park lie below sea level, yet the park lies 250 miles away from any major body of water. The absolute lowest point of elevation is Badwater Basin: 282 feet below sea level. Pretty cool!

The salt flats truly are a crazy sight. The little rain that falls, evaporates quickly and the familiar salt crust remains. That is why the flats contain mostly table salt plus some calcite, gypsum, and borax.

Walking on the salt flats in Badwater Basin.

As you can well imagine, the water is pretty salty here. Not ideal for human consumption, but the Badwater snail and Pickleweed plant seem to like it!

The park allows you to take a walk in the salt flats. Take a moment to look above you: There towers Telescope Peak in all its glory, over two miles from where you stand. Pretty impressive.

4. …to the highest peak in the park!

The peak, with telescope and summit register.

That’s right: With its 11,043 ft, Telescope Peak is the highest peak in the park! Where earlier you walked below sea level, now it is time to climb all the way up. The Panamint Range, with Telescope Peak as its crown jewel, proudly overlooks Death Valley. From the parking lot near Mahogany Flat Campground, the hike is a 14 miles roundtrip and takes about 7 hours to complete.

Hugging an ancient Bristlecone Pine Tree.

PS: On the top of the mountain awaits a nice surprise… Yep, it is a telescope! Besides that, there is a summit register, where you can proudly record your name. It is always fun to read some of the summit messages of previous hikers.

Snowy side of Telescope Peak during sunset hours.

It is important to take water and warm clothes with you on the trek. There are not many water sources in the park, and it can cool down quite a bit up there. We even encountered some snow patches in mid-October!

5. Ubehebe Crater

As a result of volcanic steam explosions, the Ubehebe Craters were formed. The largest one, Ubehebe Crater, is half a mile wide and 777 feet deep. The crater is thought to be some thousand years old.

It is definitely worth following one of the three hiking trails. We followed the trail that circumnavigated the crater and admired the depth and layers from different points of view. Basalt is the main rock type of this crater.

The origins of the name Ubehebe are somewhat confusing: According to NPS, Ubehebe was the Paiute name given to the Ubehebe Peak, 24 miles away from the crater. The crater itself is actually known to the Timbisha Shoshone tribe as “Tem-pin-tta-Wo’sah”.

6. Hiking Golden Canyon & Gower Gulch

Otherwordly landscapes.

Another hike we really enjoyed was the Golden Canyon & Gower Gulch loop. A total of 4.3 miles, this route takes you gradually uphill to Golden Canyon, gives you a stunning overlook on the canyon and takes you back down Gower Gulch to the parking lot. You can add small detours, such as Red Cathedral and The Badlands loop. The hike itself is pretty moderate, but the heat makes it quite strenuous.

7. Life on Mars: Stargazing

Visiting Death Valley is a special experience on many levels. After a long day of extreme heat, you’ll be happy to watch the sun go down. Once the stars and the moon appear, you can feast your eyes on the beautiful night sky. That is because Death Valley happens to be one of the darkest places in the US! Although light pollution from nearby megacities Las Vegas and Los Angeles has increased tremendously, Death Valley remains an excellent place for some stargazing.

The park was even recognized as International Dark Sky Park. Rightly so, as the park takes many measures to protect the darkness at night. That is why you can easily spot the Milky Way and many other celestial objects at night. Can you spot the Big Dipper?

Experiencing Death Valley at night is something you cannot miss. Take your time, so your eyes can fully adjust to the darkness. We visited during the full moon, and it lit up the whole landscape - pretty special. It was ideal for a nightly stroll but less convenient for stargazing. We had to wait until the moon disappeared into the mountain range.

PS: Don’t forgot to listen for wildlife! During the nighttime, we were lucky to witness kit foxes, jackrabbits, coyotes, and bats.

8. Beatty & the Burrows

Beatty is a small town in Nevada, often called “The Gateway to Death Valley”. Only 7 miles from the park’s entrance, this charming town lies amidst ghost towns, mining districts and historical artifacts. A remarkable remnant of the mining era is Beatty’s wild burros! Descendants from the burros who hauled supplies for mining camps, the burros were released, (or left behind) when the miners left the area. But burros are strong, adaptable animals who do well in the heat.

As of recent, there are about 800 burros in the Beatty area. Some find them a nuisance, as they knock over trash cans and cause traffic jams, but the tourists sure love them. Welcome to the Wild West!

9. Never too hot for Hot Springs

Yes, there are hot springs in Death Valley! The Saline Hot Springs are located in the remote Saline Valley area, northwest of the park. In total, there are 3 hot springs, ranging from 95 to 107 degrees. Their inaccessibility and remoteness are part of their allure.

Just like other highlights in Death Valley, it is not that easy getting there. You have to follow a 2-hour dirt road and would need a high clearance vehicle, preferably a 4x4. But with a tank full of gas and some dedication, you will have the opportunity to soak in these beautiful and remote hot springs. Clothing optional.

When we visited Death Valley in 2021, we didn’t want to make the long trip because of high gas prices… and we regret that decision now, due to even higher gas prices!

10. Offroad Adventures

Last but not least: Death Valley is a true offroad paradise. We were lucky to have rented a Toyota 4Runner with 4WD or we would have missed out! There is the famous Hell’s Gate and of course Titus Canyon, a truly epic backcountry drive that resembles a slot canyon.

Thanks for reading!

UFOs, Bigfoot and Other Mysteries | Mount Shasta’s Magical Atmosphere

For many people, a California road trip is a bucket-list trip. There are the megacities, such as LA and San Francisco, the famous beaches, and even some Route 66. The popular parks Yosemite and Sequoia spring to mind - both of which welcome millions of visitors every year. But, if you venture a little further north, you’ll find that Northern California has some magic of its own.

The majestic Mount Shasta during golden hour.

Shasta-Trinity National Forest

Close to the Oregon border lies California’s largest national forest: Shasta-Trinity National Forest. With over 2 million acres of land, hundreds of lakes, and five wilderness areas, there is a ton to explore out here. A true paradise for boaters, climbers, hippies, and hikers, Shasta-Trinity National Forest was the very first stop of our road trip. The PCT also runs through this forest. We touched the trail marker and waved it goodbye with pain in our hearts. One day, our paths will cross again!

We got off the PCT around the Oregon/California border due to wildfires and came up with plan B: Rent a car and drive East! Our goal was to arrive in Pennsylvania in time for Thanksgiving… and the rest is history. :)

The Powers of Shasta’s Spring Water

In City Park, we found some time to stretch our legs and play frisbee after a long drive. We drank from the Headwaters spring flowing straight out of the mountain and watched dozens of people filling up gallons of water. Apparently, some believe the Shasta spring water holds magical powers. Moreover, it soon became clear to us that the Mount Shasta area is a mecca for spiritual enlightenment and otherworldly presences.

That evening, near the foot of the mountain, we found the perfect camping spot. This would be the second night in our rental car: A shiny, white Toyota 4Runner. The day before that, we (actually it was Ryan) built a simple bed platform in the back of the car. Thank you, Home Depot, for your tool rental service! 

When setting up camp, Ryan was telling me about the mysterious volcano and the beliefs surrounding it. Seeing the mountain for the first time, I could see the appeal. Wispy evening clouds gathered around the peaks, rendering the mountain an air of mystique.

Lemurians and the Lost City of Telos

During dinner, we listened to an online radio show about Lemurians, ancient residents of the lost continent of Lemuria. When Lemuria sank into the Pacific Ocean thousands of years ago, the Lemurians settled in Telos, the subterranean city beneath the mountain. And they have lived there ever since, or so the legend says.

Toyota-turned-to-temporary home.

But it is not only the spiritually atuned who honor the mountain. Certain Native American cultures hold this place very dear: The Great Spirit Skell is said to have created Mt. Shasta as a steppingstone from heaven, overlooking the Earth. The Sacred Mountain Shasta represents a space of life and creation. That is why rituals and offerings are still very much alive in this part of Northern California.

Roughly 14,179 feet above sea level, Mount Shasta is considered a safe place for Lemurians, lizard-people, angels, aliens, and other mystical creatures. Even Bigfoot has been spotted in this area! We are open-minded and love anything fantasy, but we did not know what to make of this mountain’s reputation. After dinner, we gazed at the stars above us until we drifted to sleep in our soft sleeping bags. When I woke up to pee, I could not help but be alert. Alas, I saw nothing but the forest and the night sky. I watched the mysterious mountain peak glimmering in the moonlight and bade the mountain and all its dwellers goodnight.

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Thanks for reading!

Stories of the Oregon Coast Trail

Seaside Explorations

Oregon’s coast has so much beauty to offer. Visitors and residents gather here for excellent birdwatching, surfing, and relaxation. In September 2021, due to the California wildfires on the PCT, we headed down to the Oregon coast to escape the smoke… and take a walk! Winds in our hair, sand between our toes - and basically everywhere, because that’s what sand does - and camping on the beach: Here’s our story of the Oregon Coast Trail and tips to get you started.

What is the Oregon Coast Trail?

Maybe you have heard of California’s Lost Coast Trail or Washington’s North Coast Trail in Olympic National Park. Well, Oregon takes it one step further: The Oregon Coast Trail is a long-distance walk that entails the entire coastline of Oregon. The hike can be divided into 10 sections and the total distance is somewhere between 400 - 425 miles. In total, it takes about 1 month to complete this trek. Yep, this trail is something different.

Meaning…?

The Oregon Coast Trail isn’t just about following a trail: You walk close to the Pacific Ocean and its humid forests, bays, inlets, and rivers. So be prepared to get your feet wet! Walking through low waters, swimming, or hitching a boat ride - it’s all part of the game. Thumbs up! In our experience, most boaters and fishers are very helpful and will gladly help you over the water.

Side note:

This trail is not for the passionate wilderness purists. A lot of the trail is paved. You often end up road walking. In some sections, you cannot avoid US 101. This is not only boring but pretty dangerous too. The highway does not have much of a shoulder and we mostly ended up hitchhiking. Usually, it is only a couple of miles.

Side Note #2:

Oregon is currently busy tackling this problem! (Read about it here)

What is the Character of the Trail?

Life is Better at the Beach!

About half of the Oregon Coast Trail is beach. Hiking on sand… is pretty darn tough! Trekking poles may help on patches of wet sand but are pretty much useless. But walking the beaches can be a very relaxing experience. A fresh sea breeze, taking a nap in the dunes, looking at pretty shells… Can you feel your stress levels lowering yet?

Forest Trails and Dirt Roads

The Oregon Coast Trail passes by several incredible nature reserves and parks. Think of Ecola State Park, Fort Stevens State Park, and Cape Meares. These forest trails are relatively easy to moderate. They go up and down frequently, but the elevation gain is minimal. The forested sections take up about a quarter of the trek.

Ecola State Park

One of the absolute highlights is Ecola State Park, a fairylike forest full of ferns and towering trees. This is your chance to sleep in one of the majestic wooden cabins in the middle of the woods. There is even a restroom and picnic place. All in all, 10/10 - would sleep again!

One of the wooden cabins in Ecola State Park.

And some road walking

As previously mentioned, about a quarter of the Oregon Coast Trail involves road walking. If you’re lucky, the road takes you through town and you can score some ice cream. If not, you end up on the narrow 101 Highway.

Walking the line on a quiet backroad.

PS: The southbound shoulder is the wider one! We either walked that shoulder or hitchhiked.

Impressions of Nature Nearby the Sea

We bought a folding pocket guide for coastal birds so we could identify seagulls, snowy plovers and other seabirds. The Oregon coast is also the home of seals and sea lions - keep your eyes peeled and your ears wide open.

Left: Sea lions at the docks in Astoria. / Right: My first time spotting sea stars.

Furthermore, you find many more treasures washed ashore: Lost jellyfish, mussel beds, seaweeds of all sizes, and the most beautiful shells. Pure maritime magic.

Big chance that the paths will be muddy, wet, or at least moist. The Oregon Coast gets its fair share of rain. The humid conditions, however, create the most beautiful green forests, ferns, and breaking clouds. Life flourishes due to having the ocean nearby.

Resupply and other food options

The Oregon Coast Trail is no doubt a cultural experience: You pass one coastal town after another. From Oceanside to Seaside to Rockaway Beach: Town names are unmistakably associated with the sea.

Dine and wine at the OCT in one of the campgrounds.

That means you don’t have to pack much food. Along the road, there are plenty of shops, restaurants, and fisheries. We highly recommend visiting the latter: Not only will you support local businesses, but you taste seafood fresh from the ocean!

After eating cooked shells, crab, mussels, or shrimps, you throw the scales straight back into the sea. Part of the experience!

Tillamook is one of the towns that you might pass along the way. The famous cheese factory can be visited and we heard stories of free cheese samples and ice cream… Just saying!

What about potable water?

Ryan is filtering water with his Sawyer Squeeze.

Drinking from naturally-flowing water sources along the OCT is somewhat complicated. Some are mixed with salt water, others are possibly contained with oily run-off from the nearby Highway. So choose your water sources with care and keep an eye out for water spigots on campgrounds and town parks.

Lunchtime at the Pelican Brewery! No peanut butter wraps on this trail..

A safer option? Drink beer! Oregon is well-known for its good beer and the coastal towns are host to several microbreweries. We especially loved Pelican Brewery with its variety of IPAs and a good selection of food. Yum.

Is the Oregon Coast Trail easy to navigate?

You would think so, right? But nothing could be further from the truth. Sometimes, you come across private land, dangerous cliffs or the beach simply ends. This trail requires some guessing and checking. Online GPX-files and guidebooks can help you figure out the detours.

Don’t count on trail markers, as they are rather rare.

Best season to walk the OCT?

The trail’s conditions are pretty good throughout the summer months. It is possible, however, to hike the OCT in late spring (May - June) or early fall (September - October). It is important to keep river fords and tide cycles into account and plan your hike accordingly.

We hiked large parts of the trail in early September and had a real good time. The weather was gentle and there were few tourists. But whenever you decide to go, be prepared for rain and wind.

Any tip or recommendations?

Don’t forget to visit the lighthouses along the OCT! We particularly loved Cape Meares lighthouse and its surroundings.

Left: Cape Meares lighthouse / Right: The infamously cool Octopus Tree.

As mentioned before: Tide charts all the way! You will need them to know when to ford rivers or cross beaches. During high tide, we sometimes had to wait it out until the next day. Please take this seriously: Riptides and sneaker waves can easily knock you off your feet.

High tide is setting in: We just made the beach crossing in time!

What else? Be flexible. You never know where the next day will bring you - especially if you’re hiking this trail. And most of all: Enjoy your time out there. Take it one step at a time. Research has shown that the sea improves your well-being. Enjoy the ocean breeze!

For the Twilight fans!

The OCT crosses one of the Twilight filming locations! On Indian Beach, just next to Ecola State Park, Jacob told Bella about the Quileute’s legends of “the cold ones” in the first movie. Team Jacob!

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Thanks for following our journey!

Pacific Crest Trail: Section K: Stehekin to Stevens Pass

PCT SOBO hike in Washington: Glacier Peak Wilderness

After a wholesome evening in Stehekin, section K of the PCT SOBO continues through Glacier Peak Wilderness, high up in the mountains. It was late July, the sky was baby blue, and the sunlight bathed the forests and creeks in different shades of gold. Because of the summer heat and elevation gain, it was a pretty rough, but rewarding stretch!

Day 3: First steps into the valley

Left: Irish making his way around a fallen tree. / Right: Welcome to Glacier Peak Wilderness!

Stuffed from the bakery goodies in Stehekin, we put our backpacks back on and said farewell to the friendly bus driver. Now it is all the way uphill! We gradually climb up to 678m (2255 ft).

Shiny new suspension bridges along the PCT.

After 12 miles of huffing and puffing, we camp alongside South Fork Agnes Creek, a wild glacial stream. The campsite used to be sketchy due to hazardous trees, so we paid extra attention to where we staked our tents.

Day 4: Climbing to the heart of Glacier Peak Wilderness

I woke up (late again) and enjoyed a hot coffee while reading on Farout (you know, the previous Guthooks) what today's hike would bring. It was very clear: Today's trail would be devoted to the ascend into Glacier Peak Wilderness. Climbing, climbing, and more climbing. Oh, and bushwhacking.

Crossing creeks via wooden bridges or logs.

The sun was our constant companion in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Armed with sunglasses and a sunhat, I slowly moved forward. The landscape in the valley started to change with every step. After bushwhacking through brambles and bushes, the vegetation was now growing sparse and the creeks were getting colder.

By pure chance, I found Dudders' glasses in the middle of some serious bushwhacking and was happy to return them to him. Later that day, I would lose my watch while scrambling over a fallen tree. Surprisingly, Irish found it and returned it to me that same evening. Sometimes, as Luna Lovegood in Harry Potter says, "things we lose have a way of coming back to us in the end... If not always in a way we expect."

Blowdown trees: Thank you trail crew!

The afternoon is spent walking in the woods again. A sky-high, old forest full of towering trees. Many of those giants seem to have succumbed to gravity. Fallen trees form huge obstacles and I wriggle myself under or push myself over the tree. It feels like a true jungle workout! Later on, we heard that the PCT trail crews put all their time and effort into clearing these blowdowns. Some trees are colossal and I can only imagine the effort it takes to clear them from the trail. I salute these people!

Blowdowns feel like forest gymnastics!

SOBO Hikers: Birds of a feather flock together

I set up camp at 5 pm and was soon joined by Irish and Dudders. Irish taught me to camp away from the trail, as animals use trail tracks too. He too shows me to pour out snacks in one's hand. Trail hygiene is somewhat primitive, so it is better not to touch each other's food. I am grateful for the knowledge he shares with me and simply happy with my two trail buddies. I am 25 years old, Irish is 50-ish and Dudders 73. Three different generations, one beautiful connection.

Cougar alarm

That night, we were awakened by someone entering camp. It is a rattled hiker from Seattle who was stalked by a cougar not far from our camp. She stayed with us for the night. During twilight hours and nighttime, cougars are most active.

Day 5: Alpine enchantment on the PCT

Today was all about flowers, colours, clouds,... An abundance of life. I am still spellbound just thinking about it. The world feels very different up there.

Flower paradise.

Not only the ripening berries, but also the first NOBOs start to show up! From then on, I would meet a handful, or more, thruhikers and sectionhikers every day. Conversations were funny, genuine and kept me going with a smile on my face. Plus I made other friends too..

Left: Blacktail deer saying hi! / Right: Into the Glacier Peak territory.

This day was my first 20-mile day as a PCT SOBO hiker. I had my intentions set on the Dolly Vista camp spot - gorgeous pit toilet - and was happy to reach it. The end of the day was a +2000 feet climb in less than 3 miles. It was painful, but rewarding. Washington in a nutshell!

I bathed my feet in the icy-cold water while swatting mosquitos and drinking hot cacao. Time for bed now.

Day 6: Hiking up and down with a hint of bear spray

Started hiking at 5700 feet, then following switchbacks downhill to 3200, and eventually climbing back to 5400 feet. All in less than 10 miles. Yep, this is Washington for sure!

Mica Lake (5400 feet) was the place where my friend Stitches had an injury that - wait for it - left him with stitches in his forehead. I mentally sent him some support and hoped to see him soon back on trail.

Left & middle: Yummy water sources. / Right: Branden's walking stick.

After the final climb, the trail took me past many seasonal mountain streams and flower fields. I drank from every creek and waterfall. The Washington water tasted SO good! :)

26 miles in, I decided to call it a day. Unfortunately, that night, I accidentally showered myself with bear spray. I had to scoop ice in Ziploc bags and sleep with my aching hands tucked in those bags. Quite the adventure indeed :-)

Day 7: From Portal Peak to Kodak Peak ❤️

With bags under my eyes and burning, red hands, I dragged myself to Portal Peak, where I met some nice climbers who took my picture.

After chatting for a while, we said our goodbyes. I waved to White mountain and made way for Kodak Peak. Is it a coincidence that I would meet fellow SOBO hiker Kodak that same day, on that exact location? ❤️

We took a break in lake Sally Ann and talked the day away. The landscape was evergreen. Pear Lake was where we camped. We had a lovely evening swim, chatted with fellow hikers, and fell asleep under the sound of buzzing mosquitos. It is the very end of July and they are more awake than ever.

Day 8: Hitchhiking from the PCT to Skykomish

After 10 miles of hiking, we arrive at Stevens Pass and hitchhike west to Skykomish. Population: 121.

Skykomish has a laundry (hurray), a pub (double hurray!), and the Cascadia Inn, a hiker-friendly hotel owned by the major himself! Beer, town food, a shower, and a bed - I am a happy woman.

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Thanks for reading!

Pacific Crest Trail - Section K: Rainy Pass to Stehekin (part 1)

My first steps on the PCT as a SOBO hiker.

Rainy Pass had its own mini-PCT-monument.

Day 1: Better start walking!

Saturday, July 24th is D-day! I am dropped off by trail angel Madd Baker at Rainy Pass, 61 miles from the Canadian border. As we speak, the Cedar Creek fire is still burning and I was advised to start my PCT SOBO hike from Rainy Pass. Remembering my promise to my mother to make wise decisions, I'm headed for Rainy Pass. I'll be back for you, northern terminus!

Nothing ever goes as planned. And that's totally fine!

After all the disappointments in 2020 (aka canceled NOBO permit due to Covid), I was just very grateful to be on trail. Whether northbound, southbound, eastbound or whatever - I was there! I fought hard for my dream to come true and it was coming true. I looked at my two feet and watched them slowly move forward. Now it's time to walk!

Some of the first PCT trail markers I encountered on trail.

Bear bravery? ... Not really :)

My moment of bravery and self-confidence was short lived, when after only 15 minutes I encountered my first black bear. Crunching on the leaves of a fallen tree, looking for roots and early berries. Starstruck. Bears truly are beautiful animals. I just wasn't sure how to proceed. Not long after that came Irish. "Don't you worry, they won't hurt you! Just walk on!" Following the footsteps of this brave Irishman, I cautiously proceeded. My first day on trail, my first bear. How befitting!

Left: Bear claw marks on the right tree. / Right: My guess: the Eastern White pine cone.

I only walked 8 miles that day, stopping every now and then to pinch myself and see if this was real. And to catch my breath - I was struggling with the weight of my backpack. Every beginning is hard, and that is okay. I am always reminded of a quote of Murakami:

"Pain is inevitable. Suffering is optional."

I'd like to live by that.

Washington wilderness wonders

First impressions of the Washington wilderness? Only superlatives. So green, so lush! What a wild, bold, and brave terrain. I walked with a smile on my face every single day. My first campsitelearned was shared with Sofa Queen. I learnt about her excellent dental hygiene on trail - impressive! - and her incredible courage to carry a backpack that was even heavier than mine. The next morning, I was hoping to wake up at 6 AM, but it was 9 instead. Oh well!

Howard Lake, full of loud frogs and lily pads.

Hiking in my own fantasy world

The first couple of days I walked without earphones. Gradually, I enjoyed listening to some music or a podcast now and then. Some steep climbs got a little easier when Wilco was singing in my ear. Whenever I felt tired, I carried on listening to the adventures of Bilbo and Frodo in Middle Earth. I looked around and could well imagine their quest, sorrows, and aches. Not that I encountered any orcs or unfriendly trees, on the contrary: The trees were magnificent and the people were good-looking and gracious. ;-)

Day 2: A lovely time in Stehekin

My second day on trail started later than anticipated, but I was very excited. I would make way for Stehekin today! After a sunny and happy morning, I arrived around noon at the High Bridge. This quaint little spot includes a ranger cabin (home to the friendly ranger Stan), information signs, and picnic tables. That is where I met Tahlia and her dog Strider. All of us descended to drink from the swirling Stehekin River.

The aquamarine blue Stehekin River.

Together, the three of us took the shuttle bus to Stehekin (the schedule can be found on FarOut). Tahlia was meeting up with a friend who worked at The Garden, an organic produce farm. We decided to meet up later in town that evening. Since it was only my second night on the trail, I decided to free camp in a designated camping area in town.

Stehekin is accessible by boat, plane, or foot only. So, "town" literally means a post office, a general store, and a couple of chalets. It is a peaceful boaters' paradise.

Blue skies, blue water.

Swimming session in Lake Chelan

After setting up my tent, I escaped my sweaty clothes and took a refreshing swim in Lake Chelan. It was icy cold, but it felt so good! There were some families on boats enjoying the setting sun in the middle of the lake. Tahlia joined me for a swim, and later we had a beer with her friend from The Garden, the three of us looking out over the lake. It was then that I had my first wasp sting - that's what you get for drinking sweet cider! ;-)

Lake Chelan, from the Salish word Tsi-Laan, meaning deep water.

That same evening, I saw Irish again who met up with his hiker friend, Dudders. They hiked the PCT together in 2017 and were now hiking SOBO. I enjoyed their company together with Crisco. Tahlia and Strider later joined us too. It was a lovely evening.

Day 3: Leaving Stehekin as ... Cinnamon!

The next morning, the shuttle bus took us back to trail around 8 PM. I hardly managed to get up on time and pack up - and frankly, I still suck at waking up early. Irish and Dudders were on the bus too and happy that I made it after all! 10minutes later, the bus stopped at the bakery. That's right, THE bakery of Stehekin! It really lives up to its reputation. The staff is so friendly and the food is unforgettable. In particular, the pizza slices, blueberry muffins, and their world-famous cinnamon buns were fantastic. I shared those with Irish and Dudders, who in turn rewarded me with my trailname: Cinnamon! I couldn't be happier.

Yep, this is me from now on! Yummy :)

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Thanks for reading!

Hiking the Alta Via in the Dolomite Mountains

1. About the Alta Via 1

The Alta Via 1 is also known in German as Dolomiten Höhenweg and simply translates as High Route 1. It is probably the most popular trail of the 17 Dolomite alpine trails. This classic route through the Dolomites requires no expertise and is rated fairly easy to moderate. There are no technical challenges, but be prepared for some steep climbs and descents! That is why I would highly recommend trekking poles for this trail.

Trekking poles for the win!

The Alta Via 1 is about 77 miles (125 km). On average, you can complete the hike in 5 to 10 days, depending on your personal preferences and goals.

The Dolomite region is nestled in the Italian provinces of Trentino and Alto Adige (South Tyrol). I was really excited about experiencing the northern Italian mountain culture. In the Dolomite mountains, it is hard to miss the German and Ladin influences too. On trail too, you'll spot traditional mountain farms, artisan craft and many wooden chalets and huts.

1.2. What is the best time to hike the Alta Via 1?

The Italian Dolomites are most popular in both summer and winter. In winter, skiers and snowboarders flock together to glide down and enjoy the snowy mountain slopes. Hiking trails gradually reopen in spring, but you can be sure to encounter lots of (melting) snow. That's why most hikers choose to hike the Alta Via in summer (June, July, August) or even late summer. We chose the latter and hiked the Alta Via 1 in September, when the crowds died down and temperatures were mild.

1.3. Accommodation on the Alta Via 1

Is wild camping allowed? ⛺

Officially, wild camping is prohibited. That means it is not allowed to put up your tent in the Dolomites for more than 24 hours or during the daytime. The Dolomites are marked as UNESCO World Heritage site and protected as such. If caught, you could face a heavy fine.

That being said... If you pitch your tent just before dark and pack up early the next morning, you should be fine. Of course, please be aware of your surroundings. Try not to camp near the trail, settlements, tourist areas, farmland, or private land. Campfires are no good idea, as there's practically no wood and the area is very fragile. And, as always, leave no trace!

Mountain huts = Rifugios

Eventually, we chose to stay in the mountain huts, more commonly known as "rifugios". The Italian huts, usually run by families, are known for their hospitality, ambiance, and good food! True, they often serve gnocchi, knödels, and polenta, but no one cooks it better than they do. ;)

Rifugio Cinque Torri, about halfway of the hike.

Obviously, private rooms are more expensive than a bunkbed in the dormitory. I booked the rifugios well in advance since they tend to fill up pretty quickly in summer. You can contact them via their website or send them an e-mail to make your booking. Oh, and don't forget to mention if you want half-board (dinner + bed + breakfast) or simply wish to spend the night. In 2019, we spent about € 45 - 65 p.p. for half-board.

1.4. Maps and books of the trail

I LOVE to carry paper maps and - why the heck not? - information books! I know, I’m not very good at Ultra light hiking. ;-) The Cicerone guidebooks are a personal favorite. Before and during the Alta Via 1, I carried this book:

Ciceron's guidebook to the Alta Via trails.

I used Kompass maps number 55 (Cortina D'Ampezzo), 57 (Bruneck - Toblach - Prags) and 77 (Alpi Bellunesi).

Kompass Maps number 55, 57 and 77. Available online or in local trekking stores.

The Alta Via 1 is well-marked by blue triangle blazes with an inset number 1. There's little to no cell service, so it is better to download offline maps before you start the hike. All Trails or Gaia GPS are my favourite apps. Some huts do have Wifi, but don't get your hopes up.

2. My hike of the Alta Via 1

In early September, we traveled by plane from Brussels, Belgium to Verona, Italy. From Verona, we took the train to Bressanone and two buses to Braies.

Braies is a small village in South Tyrol that is home to the popular Instagram lake"Lago di Braies", also known as Pragser Wildsee. This celebrity lake is the official start of the Alta Via!

Day 1: Lago di Braies - Rifugio Sennes

No wonder this lake is so popular: Lago di Braies is truly beautiful, colorful, and easily accessible by car. Plus there are cows walking around! All those factors combined make it a dream destination for photographers, Instagram tourists and love birds. We probably saw a dozen wedding shoots! You can even rent boats now, advertised as "your perfect Instagram picture". For this reason, the lake reminds me almost of a Disney attraction... Not really my thing, but at least the cows were fun! :)

You start walking around the lake. All of a sudden, the trail turns into a steep climb into the mountains! Once up top, you have a beautiful overlook of Lago di Braies. The hundreds of tourists now all look like little ants from a distance. After some time, you reach the first mountain hut: Rifugio Biella (2300 m). Time for the first trail beer!

Tiny rifugio Biella in the left corner. The first panorama of the Dolomiti mountains!

From Biella, it was an easy and quiet stroll to Rifugio Sennes (2126m), where we spent the first night on trail in a charming chalet-like bedroom.

A popular drinking spot for shepherds (the bar) and cows (the lake), we too enjoyed the magnificent panorama over the peaks Croda Rossa, Cristallo, Sorapis and Tofano.

Day 2: Rifugio Sennes - Rifugio Fanes

Today, we walked on wide tracks. Besides other hikers, we meet a family of goats, a flock of sheep, some horses, and many more cows. This clearly is farmland, a charming sight between the towering limestone peaks. The trail now runs through a lunar plateau and stays relatively even. It follows the course of the valley and ends with a climb up to Rifugio Fanes (2060 m).

One of the cabins just before reaching Rifugio Fanes.

A pleasant day of walking is celebrated in the busy and thriving Rifugio Fanes, where we meet many other hikers and mountaineers. It is a beautiful, wooden structured refuge with excellent meals, don't miss it! After one too many Génépis and schnapps, it is bedtime. :)

Day 3: Rifugio Fanes - Rifugio Lagazuoi

Leaving Rifugio Fanes after a hearty breakfast, we walk to Passo Limo and Val di Fanes. All of a sudden, the path climbs up through very rocky terrain.

The view down from Forcella del Lago.

I can tell you, it is quite a climb to the spectacular Forcella del Lago (2486 m). Here, we found many other hikers pausing and taking in the surrounding. It feels like walking through a window, where you leave the world of mountain pastures behind you. In front of you, you see Lago di Lagazuoi and the long, steep descent that leads to Rifugio Lagazuoi.

Lago di Lagazuoi

After the descent to Lago di Lagazuoi, you are confronted with one of the the toughest climbs on trail. So fill up your water and take a deep breath before you walk the final stretch to the ravishing Rifugio Lagazuoi (2752 m). We arrived there quite out of breath, but the views were well worth the effort.

Rifugio Lagazuoi, one of the absolute highlights on trail.

Being the highest point on trail, its balcony has the most beautiful panorama over the Dolomiti region. Mountain peaks everywhere! Wow :) Keep in mind, however, that this iconic mountain refuge is more pricey than other huts.

Day 4: Rifugio Lagazuoi - Rifugio Cinque Torri

These lands were once war lands. You can visit Galleria Lagazuoi, a historic war tunnel built by Italian troops and pass by evidence of combat, such as barbed wire and fortifications. Strange to think of warfare in a region as beautiful as this one. Although, the clouds and mist do give the landscape an air of mystique...

We walk past Tofana di Rozes, a very popular peak with climbers. The landscape seems almost majestic, as the white, rocky habitat rises from the valley

The stretch to Rifugio Cinque Torri (2137 m) is definitely one of my favourite parts of the trail. We watch boulder climbers tackle towering rocks. Later in the evening, we enjoy our meal in Cinque Torri, a quaint family-run rifugio with more than satisfying food.

Rifugio Cinque Torri, named after "the Five Towers" in the background.

Day 5: Rifugio Cinque Torri - Rifugio Citta di Fiume

Today we leave the land of the Five Towers. Now, several routes are possible. We chose the longer option, skipping Passo Giau and heading to Croda da Lago instead.

The incredible Croda da Lago mountains, with Cima d'Ambrizzola as its highest peak.

After Passo Ambrizzola, grassy pastures and hillsides are our constant companion. This makes for easy walking and more cow-spotting.

We spent the afternoon gaping at Mount Pelmo. A monumental massif of limestone, this easily is one of the prettiest peaks in the Dolomiti region

Eventually, we arrive in Rifugio Citta di Fiume (1918 m). We were seated at the table with other hikers and shared dinner and Génépi. Great evening, lovely atmosphere, and a starry night sky.

Counting stars at rifugio Citta Di Fiume.

Day 6: Rifugio Citta Di Fiume - Rifugio Tissi

The trail takes you to Passo Staulanza, a mountain road that can get quite busy in summer. We had a coffee in the rifugio there, which was very popular with bikers and cyclists. After that, you can choose whether you walk the road or take the Giro di Mount Pelmo, which takes a little longer but is obviously more scenic. We chose the latter, following the west face of Monte Pelmo and zigzagging our way to rifugio Coldai. This rifugio is beautifully located on the slopes of Monte Civetta, offering a stunning view of the Civetta peaks. We took a well-earned break here, and arrived 15 minutes later at Lago Coldai, a beautiful little alpine lake.

Lago Coldai, one of the most beautiful lakes in the Dolomites

After dipping our toes in the water, we faced what felt for us like the hardest part of the trail: The climb to rifugio Tissi (2250m). The day was coming to an end, we were feeling pretty tired and we had to climb an extra steep 150 m to get to the secluded cabin. Nevertheless, all our woes disappeared when we arrived there. Tissi truly is a magical stay! We were treated to a spectacular sunset, friendly staff, and an amazing dinner with the kindest trail friends.

After dinner, we all went outside to savour the night skies.

The heart sculpture of Rifugio Tissi at nighttime.

Day 7: Rifugio Tissi - Rifugio San Sebastiano

We said goodbye to our trail friends and left for our next stop, rifugio San Sebastiano. Descending back to the Alta Via 1, we walked along the slopes of Monte Civetta (which offers +50 climbing routes!) into the Moiazza mountains. Slowly but surely, the Civetta peaks are fading in the distance. Now, the trail isn't too rocky, which means smooth walking.

Today we make for Passo Duran, another mountain pass along the trail. We spend the night in Rifugio San Sebastiano (1605 m), a beautifully decorated chalet just alongside the road. You can seat yourself next to the crackling fireplace, perfect to read a book or write in your journal. Definitely recommend staying in this peaceful refuge.

Day 8: Rifugio San Sebastiano - Rifugio Pian de Fontana

Day 8 on trail was largely spent in the Van di Città plateau, one of the more remote areas of the Alta Via 1. It is a dream for geologists, as it shows evidence of glacial and periglacial environments, as well as karst terrain.

Straight from a fantasy novel.

Along the way, we pass Rifugio Pramperet, nestled in the west side of the Sebastian peak.

This stage of the trail makes for spectacular hiking, as you scramble up to the Forcella de Cita Zud (2400m) and are rewarded with spectacular views of valleys. These deep valleys are called Van de Zita, the home of the chamois, a special kind of goat antelope that lives in the mountains.

From there on, it is all downhill to Rifugio Pian de Fontana (1632 m). And when I say downhill, I mean really downhill. This section is quite steep and exposed. Take care of those knees and make use of your trekking poles! This mountain hut is best-known for its excellent food. We spent the last night on trail in dormitory bunk beds, basic but more than sufficient.

Day 9: Rifugio Pian de Fontana - Belluno

The last day on trail takes you to grassy meadows with marvelous views.

One last trek to Forcella Varetta, from where you make way for rifugio Bianchet. The perfect cabin to have a drink and celebrate the ending of your trek, so quaint and peaceful! Now, the path descends and slowly evolves from a rocky landscape to a wooded area. In this valley, you see gorges and overhanging cliffs, all bewildered with trees and scrubs. This is what South America looks like in my imagination. Under the cover of trees, we hear the sounds of civilizatio coming closer. Eventually, the trail leads all the way to the road near La Stanga where you can take the bus to Belluno. After 20 minutes on the bus with several other hikers, we arrive in Belluno.

3. Tips and tricks

• When passing by or spending the night at one of the rifugios, be sure to try a glass of Génépi! This is an alpine plant that is typical for the region. The liquor made from this plant has a strong herbal taste but is not too sweet. Generally, one drinks Génépi after dinner or outdoor activities. You'll find Génépi in every Rifugio, where they often produce homemade recipes. Génépi usually is about 40°, the perfect nightcap after a long day of hiking!

• When you decide to hike the trail in spring or fall, make sure you bring the right gear! You will probably need an ice axe and crampons, depending on the snow level. And do not forget a weeklong supply of food and your tent, as most of the mountain huts will be closed for the season.

• An alternative ending would be to hike/climb all the way to Belluno. The final stretch of the trail is, however, for experts only. The difficult via ferrata takes you from Mount Schiara all the way down to Belluno. Of course, you will need the right equipment and level of skill to tackle this. Since I had neither, I took the mellow way down. ;-)

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Petrified Forest National Park: Tips for First Time Visitors

During our road trip from Oregon to Pennsylvania, we visited Petrified Forest National Park on an early November morning. We had only a little time to visit Petrified Forest and did not know what to expect. Well, it turned out a pleasant surprise! The vastness of the landscape and the history of the region make this national park unique.

Petrified Forest might be not as vast or monumental as some of the other national parks, but it is definitely worth visiting. You are less likely to encounter the masses and will probably have a quieter experience. We loved having the park pretty much to ourselves!

What is Petrified Forest about?

Petrified Forest National Park is best known for its petrified wood - no surprise there! :) These remnants of prehistoric forests are scattered across the park. Over time, the logs crystallized into quartz, creating a beautiful rainbow effect. 

The pieces of petrified wood show a wide range of colors and composition.

Fun fact: Thinking of taking one of these beauties home with you? Better think twice! First of all, it is forbidden to remove petrified wood from the park. Secondly, many visitors who did take a piece of petrified wood, have returned it ASAP! Why? Because they believed they were cursed with bad luck. The park has received piles of letters from "cursed" visitors, describing their misfortunes and expressing guilt about the theft. Ye be warned ... ☠️

As everywhere else: Leave no Trace ànd leave what you find.

If you’re looking for a souvenir, you can simply buy a piece of petrified wood in both visitor centres. The souvenirs are retrieved from private land, so less chance of being cursed!

Some highlights of the park

If you, like me, get all excited about old inscriptions, Newspaper Rock is definitely worth the stop! The name says it all: Rocks filled with over 600 petroglyphs. The Navajo name is Tse’ Hane, meaning “rock that tells a story”. The designs, carved by ancestral Puebloan people, include solar calendars, animals, and human-like creatures.

So hop out of your car and take a look! There is an overlook from where you can peer through spotting scopes and observe the petroglyphs in detail. 

Some petroglyphs of strange objects and animals.

Crystal Forest is an excellent stop if you want to take a closer look at the petrified logs. It is a short 0.8 mile-loop that brings you right to the ancient logs.

The scenic drive through the park takes you past The Tepees. You cannot miss these miniature mountains! The crazy palette of colors makes them look otherworldly.

Desert pyramids in Petrified Forest.

The Painted Desert Inn is a fantastic piece of architecture! The building, built in Pueblo Revival style, blends in perfectly with its surroundings. The smooth surfaces and pink walls merge with the desert landscape. Built in the 1920s, it was very popular with Route 66 travellers. Nowadays the Inn functions as a museum and exhibition space.

The Painted Desert Inn, a beautifully rose-colored house.

Unfortunately, due to the return deadline for our rental car, we had no time to visit Agate House, Giant Logs Trail, and other points of interest. 

Hiking in Petrified Forest

Given the fact that Petrified Forest Nation Park is relatively small, most hiking trails are 0.5 - 2 miles long. Ideal for day hikes! If you’re looking for more solitude, there are some longer backcountry hikes. The park has a closing time, however, so make sure that you keep track of time. ⏰

Due to a lack of time, we were unable to explore Devil’s Playground. This 7 - 8 mile loop hike looks simply amazing, though! The trek takes you to isolated hoodoos, boulders, and pieces of petrified wood. There is no designated trail, plus you need to obtain a free permit at the visitor center. Definitely on my wishlist!

Camping?

Good news: The park offers a backpacking wilderness permit completely free of cost! You can easily obtain the permit from either visitor center. There is, however, no RV or car camping.

Location?

Petrified Forest National Park lies in northeastern Arizona, close to the New Mexico border. The park has two entrances, one in the north and the other in the south. Entering the park from the north takes you over the Interstate 40 and, after 28 miles, you reach the south entrance (US-180). This means you can easily visit Petrified Forest in one day.

Image: nps.gov (National Park Service)

How to get by?

There is no shuttle service or public transport. In other words, you are on your own. Hurray, freedom!

Most visitors drive the 28 miles through the park. Bicycles, E-bikes, and motorcycles are allowed as well. More interestingly, Petrified Forest has two wilderness areas where backcountry hiking only is allowed. There are no designated trails there, so you can wander at free will! To be continued…