Stories of the Oregon Coast Trail
Seaside Explorations
Oregon’s coast has so much beauty to offer. Visitors and residents gather here for excellent birdwatching, surfing, and relaxation. In September 2021, due to the California wildfires on the PCT, we headed down to the Oregon coast to escape the smoke… and take a walk! Winds in our hair, sand between our toes - and basically everywhere, because that’s what sand does - and camping on the beach: Here’s our story of the Oregon Coast Trail and tips to get you started.
What is the Oregon Coast Trail?
Maybe you have heard of California’s Lost Coast Trail or Washington’s North Coast Trail in Olympic National Park. Well, Oregon takes it one step further: The Oregon Coast Trail is a long-distance walk that entails the entire coastline of Oregon. The hike can be divided into 10 sections and the total distance is somewhere between 400 - 425 miles. In total, it takes about 1 month to complete this trek. Yep, this trail is something different.
Meaning…?
The Oregon Coast Trail isn’t just about following a trail: You walk close to the Pacific Ocean and its humid forests, bays, inlets, and rivers. So be prepared to get your feet wet! Walking through low waters, swimming, or hitching a boat ride - it’s all part of the game. Thumbs up! In our experience, most boaters and fishers are very helpful and will gladly help you over the water.
Side note:
This trail is not for the passionate wilderness purists. A lot of the trail is paved. You often end up road walking. In some sections, you cannot avoid US 101. This is not only boring but pretty dangerous too. The highway does not have much of a shoulder and we mostly ended up hitchhiking. Usually, it is only a couple of miles.
Side Note #2:
Oregon is currently busy tackling this problem! (Read about it here)
What is the Character of the Trail?
Life is Better at the Beach!
About half of the Oregon Coast Trail is beach. Hiking on sand… is pretty darn tough! Trekking poles may help on patches of wet sand but are pretty much useless. But walking the beaches can be a very relaxing experience. A fresh sea breeze, taking a nap in the dunes, looking at pretty shells… Can you feel your stress levels lowering yet?
Forest Trails and Dirt Roads
The Oregon Coast Trail passes by several incredible nature reserves and parks. Think of Ecola State Park, Fort Stevens State Park, and Cape Meares. These forest trails are relatively easy to moderate. They go up and down frequently, but the elevation gain is minimal. The forested sections take up about a quarter of the trek.
Ecola State Park
One of the absolute highlights is Ecola State Park, a fairylike forest full of ferns and towering trees. This is your chance to sleep in one of the majestic wooden cabins in the middle of the woods. There is even a restroom and picnic place. All in all, 10/10 - would sleep again!
One of the wooden cabins in Ecola State Park.
And some road walking
As previously mentioned, about a quarter of the Oregon Coast Trail involves road walking. If you’re lucky, the road takes you through town and you can score some ice cream. If not, you end up on the narrow 101 Highway.
Walking the line on a quiet backroad.
PS: The southbound shoulder is the wider one! We either walked that shoulder or hitchhiked.
Impressions of Nature Nearby the Sea
We bought a folding pocket guide for coastal birds so we could identify seagulls, snowy plovers and other seabirds. The Oregon coast is also the home of seals and sea lions - keep your eyes peeled and your ears wide open.
Left: Sea lions at the docks in Astoria. / Right: My first time spotting sea stars.
Furthermore, you find many more treasures washed ashore: Lost jellyfish, mussel beds, seaweeds of all sizes, and the most beautiful shells. Pure maritime magic.
Big chance that the paths will be muddy, wet, or at least moist. The Oregon Coast gets its fair share of rain. The humid conditions, however, create the most beautiful green forests, ferns, and breaking clouds. Life flourishes due to having the ocean nearby.
Resupply and other food options
The Oregon Coast Trail is no doubt a cultural experience: You pass one coastal town after another. From Oceanside to Seaside to Rockaway Beach: Town names are unmistakably associated with the sea.
Dine and wine at the OCT in one of the campgrounds.
That means you don’t have to pack much food. Along the road, there are plenty of shops, restaurants, and fisheries. We highly recommend visiting the latter: Not only will you support local businesses, but you taste seafood fresh from the ocean!
After eating cooked shells, crab, mussels, or shrimps, you throw the scales straight back into the sea. Part of the experience!
Tillamook is one of the towns that you might pass along the way. The famous cheese factory can be visited and we heard stories of free cheese samples and ice cream… Just saying!
What about potable water?
Ryan is filtering water with his Sawyer Squeeze.
Drinking from naturally-flowing water sources along the OCT is somewhat complicated. Some are mixed with salt water, others are possibly contained with oily run-off from the nearby Highway. So choose your water sources with care and keep an eye out for water spigots on campgrounds and town parks.
Lunchtime at the Pelican Brewery! No peanut butter wraps on this trail..
A safer option? Drink beer! Oregon is well-known for its good beer and the coastal towns are host to several microbreweries. We especially loved Pelican Brewery with its variety of IPAs and a good selection of food. Yum.
Is the Oregon Coast Trail easy to navigate?
You would think so, right? But nothing could be further from the truth. Sometimes, you come across private land, dangerous cliffs or the beach simply ends. This trail requires some guessing and checking. Online GPX-files and guidebooks can help you figure out the detours.
Don’t count on trail markers, as they are rather rare.
Best season to walk the OCT?
The trail’s conditions are pretty good throughout the summer months. It is possible, however, to hike the OCT in late spring (May - June) or early fall (September - October). It is important to keep river fords and tide cycles into account and plan your hike accordingly.
We hiked large parts of the trail in early September and had a real good time. The weather was gentle and there were few tourists. But whenever you decide to go, be prepared for rain and wind.
Any tip or recommendations?
Don’t forget to visit the lighthouses along the OCT! We particularly loved Cape Meares lighthouse and its surroundings.
Left: Cape Meares lighthouse / Right: The infamously cool Octopus Tree.
As mentioned before: Tide charts all the way! You will need them to know when to ford rivers or cross beaches. During high tide, we sometimes had to wait it out until the next day. Please take this seriously: Riptides and sneaker waves can easily knock you off your feet.
High tide is setting in: We just made the beach crossing in time!
What else? Be flexible. You never know where the next day will bring you - especially if you’re hiking this trail. And most of all: Enjoy your time out there. Take it one step at a time. Research has shown that the sea improves your well-being. Enjoy the ocean breeze!
For the Twilight fans!
The OCT crosses one of the Twilight filming locations! On Indian Beach, just next to Ecola State Park, Jacob told Bella about the Quileute’s legends of “the cold ones” in the first movie. Team Jacob!
Thanks for following our journey!
Pacific Crest Trail: Section K: Stehekin to Stevens Pass
PCT SOBO hike in Washington: Glacier Peak Wilderness
After a wholesome evening in Stehekin, section K of the PCT SOBO continues through Glacier Peak Wilderness, high up in the mountains. It was late July, the sky was baby blue, and the sunlight bathed the forests and creeks in different shades of gold. Because of the summer heat and elevation gain, it was a pretty rough, but rewarding stretch!
Day 3: First steps into the valley
Left: Irish making his way around a fallen tree. / Right: Welcome to Glacier Peak Wilderness!
Stuffed from the bakery goodies in Stehekin, we put our backpacks back on and said farewell to the friendly bus driver. Now it is all the way uphill! We gradually climb up to 678m (2255 ft).
Shiny new suspension bridges along the PCT.
After 12 miles of huffing and puffing, we camp alongside South Fork Agnes Creek, a wild glacial stream. The campsite used to be sketchy due to hazardous trees, so we paid extra attention to where we staked our tents.
Day 4: Climbing to the heart of Glacier Peak Wilderness
I woke up (late again) and enjoyed a hot coffee while reading on Farout (you know, the previous Guthooks) what today's hike would bring. It was very clear: Today's trail would be devoted to the ascend into Glacier Peak Wilderness. Climbing, climbing, and more climbing. Oh, and bushwhacking.
Crossing creeks via wooden bridges or logs.
The sun was our constant companion in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Armed with sunglasses and a sunhat, I slowly moved forward. The landscape in the valley started to change with every step. After bushwhacking through brambles and bushes, the vegetation was now growing sparse and the creeks were getting colder.
By pure chance, I found Dudders' glasses in the middle of some serious bushwhacking and was happy to return them to him. Later that day, I would lose my watch while scrambling over a fallen tree. Surprisingly, Irish found it and returned it to me that same evening. Sometimes, as Luna Lovegood in Harry Potter says, "things we lose have a way of coming back to us in the end... If not always in a way we expect."
Blowdown trees: Thank you trail crew!
The afternoon is spent walking in the woods again. A sky-high, old forest full of towering trees. Many of those giants seem to have succumbed to gravity. Fallen trees form huge obstacles and I wriggle myself under or push myself over the tree. It feels like a true jungle workout! Later on, we heard that the PCT trail crews put all their time and effort into clearing these blowdowns. Some trees are colossal and I can only imagine the effort it takes to clear them from the trail. I salute these people!
Blowdowns feel like forest gymnastics!
SOBO Hikers: Birds of a feather flock together
I set up camp at 5 pm and was soon joined by Irish and Dudders. Irish taught me to camp away from the trail, as animals use trail tracks too. He too shows me to pour out snacks in one's hand. Trail hygiene is somewhat primitive, so it is better not to touch each other's food. I am grateful for the knowledge he shares with me and simply happy with my two trail buddies. I am 25 years old, Irish is 50-ish and Dudders 73. Three different generations, one beautiful connection.
Cougar alarm
That night, we were awakened by someone entering camp. It is a rattled hiker from Seattle who was stalked by a cougar not far from our camp. She stayed with us for the night. During twilight hours and nighttime, cougars are most active.
Day 5: Alpine enchantment on the PCT
Today was all about flowers, colours, clouds,... An abundance of life. I am still spellbound just thinking about it. The world feels very different up there.
Flower paradise.
Not only the ripening berries, but also the first NOBOs start to show up! From then on, I would meet a handful, or more, thruhikers and sectionhikers every day. Conversations were funny, genuine and kept me going with a smile on my face. Plus I made other friends too..
Left: Blacktail deer saying hi! / Right: Into the Glacier Peak territory.
This day was my first 20-mile day as a PCT SOBO hiker. I had my intentions set on the Dolly Vista camp spot - gorgeous pit toilet - and was happy to reach it. The end of the day was a +2000 feet climb in less than 3 miles. It was painful, but rewarding. Washington in a nutshell!
I bathed my feet in the icy-cold water while swatting mosquitos and drinking hot cacao. Time for bed now.
Day 6: Hiking up and down with a hint of bear spray
Started hiking at 5700 feet, then following switchbacks downhill to 3200, and eventually climbing back to 5400 feet. All in less than 10 miles. Yep, this is Washington for sure!
Mica Lake (5400 feet) was the place where my friend Stitches had an injury that - wait for it - left him with stitches in his forehead. I mentally sent him some support and hoped to see him soon back on trail.
Left & middle: Yummy water sources. / Right: Branden's walking stick.
After the final climb, the trail took me past many seasonal mountain streams and flower fields. I drank from every creek and waterfall. The Washington water tasted SO good! :)
26 miles in, I decided to call it a day. Unfortunately, that night, I accidentally showered myself with bear spray. I had to scoop ice in Ziploc bags and sleep with my aching hands tucked in those bags. Quite the adventure indeed :-)
Day 7: From Portal Peak to Kodak Peak ❤️
With bags under my eyes and burning, red hands, I dragged myself to Portal Peak, where I met some nice climbers who took my picture.
After chatting for a while, we said our goodbyes. I waved to White mountain and made way for Kodak Peak. Is it a coincidence that I would meet fellow SOBO hiker Kodak that same day, on that exact location? ❤️
We took a break in lake Sally Ann and talked the day away. The landscape was evergreen. Pear Lake was where we camped. We had a lovely evening swim, chatted with fellow hikers, and fell asleep under the sound of buzzing mosquitos. It is the very end of July and they are more awake than ever.
Day 8: Hitchhiking from the PCT to Skykomish
After 10 miles of hiking, we arrive at Stevens Pass and hitchhike west to Skykomish. Population: 121.
Skykomish has a laundry (hurray), a pub (double hurray!), and the Cascadia Inn, a hiker-friendly hotel owned by the major himself! Beer, town food, a shower, and a bed - I am a happy woman.
Thanks for reading!
Pacific Crest Trail - Section K: Rainy Pass to Stehekin (part 1)
My first steps on the PCT as a SOBO hiker.
Rainy Pass had its own mini-PCT-monument.
Day 1: Better start walking!
Saturday, July 24th is D-day! I am dropped off by trail angel Madd Baker at Rainy Pass, 61 miles from the Canadian border. As we speak, the Cedar Creek fire is still burning and I was advised to start my PCT SOBO hike from Rainy Pass. Remembering my promise to my mother to make wise decisions, I'm headed for Rainy Pass. I'll be back for you, northern terminus!
Nothing ever goes as planned. And that's totally fine!
After all the disappointments in 2020 (aka canceled NOBO permit due to Covid), I was just very grateful to be on trail. Whether northbound, southbound, eastbound or whatever - I was there! I fought hard for my dream to come true and it was coming true. I looked at my two feet and watched them slowly move forward. Now it's time to walk!
Some of the first PCT trail markers I encountered on trail.
Bear bravery? ... Not really :)
My moment of bravery and self-confidence was short lived, when after only 15 minutes I encountered my first black bear. Crunching on the leaves of a fallen tree, looking for roots and early berries. Starstruck. Bears truly are beautiful animals. I just wasn't sure how to proceed. Not long after that came Irish. "Don't you worry, they won't hurt you! Just walk on!" Following the footsteps of this brave Irishman, I cautiously proceeded. My first day on trail, my first bear. How befitting!
Left: Bear claw marks on the right tree. / Right: My guess: the Eastern White pine cone.
I only walked 8 miles that day, stopping every now and then to pinch myself and see if this was real. And to catch my breath - I was struggling with the weight of my backpack. Every beginning is hard, and that is okay. I am always reminded of a quote of Murakami:
"Pain is inevitable. Suffering is optional."
I'd like to live by that.
Washington wilderness wonders
First impressions of the Washington wilderness? Only superlatives. So green, so lush! What a wild, bold, and brave terrain. I walked with a smile on my face every single day. My first campsitelearned was shared with Sofa Queen. I learnt about her excellent dental hygiene on trail - impressive! - and her incredible courage to carry a backpack that was even heavier than mine. The next morning, I was hoping to wake up at 6 AM, but it was 9 instead. Oh well!
Howard Lake, full of loud frogs and lily pads.
Hiking in my own fantasy world
The first couple of days I walked without earphones. Gradually, I enjoyed listening to some music or a podcast now and then. Some steep climbs got a little easier when Wilco was singing in my ear. Whenever I felt tired, I carried on listening to the adventures of Bilbo and Frodo in Middle Earth. I looked around and could well imagine their quest, sorrows, and aches. Not that I encountered any orcs or unfriendly trees, on the contrary: The trees were magnificent and the people were good-looking and gracious. ;-)
Day 2: A lovely time in Stehekin
My second day on trail started later than anticipated, but I was very excited. I would make way for Stehekin today! After a sunny and happy morning, I arrived around noon at the High Bridge. This quaint little spot includes a ranger cabin (home to the friendly ranger Stan), information signs, and picnic tables. That is where I met Tahlia and her dog Strider. All of us descended to drink from the swirling Stehekin River.
The aquamarine blue Stehekin River.
Together, the three of us took the shuttle bus to Stehekin (the schedule can be found on FarOut). Tahlia was meeting up with a friend who worked at The Garden, an organic produce farm. We decided to meet up later in town that evening. Since it was only my second night on the trail, I decided to free camp in a designated camping area in town.
Stehekin is accessible by boat, plane, or foot only. So, "town" literally means a post office, a general store, and a couple of chalets. It is a peaceful boaters' paradise.
Blue skies, blue water.
Swimming session in Lake Chelan
After setting up my tent, I escaped my sweaty clothes and took a refreshing swim in Lake Chelan. It was icy cold, but it felt so good! There were some families on boats enjoying the setting sun in the middle of the lake. Tahlia joined me for a swim, and later we had a beer with her friend from The Garden, the three of us looking out over the lake. It was then that I had my first wasp sting - that's what you get for drinking sweet cider! ;-)
Lake Chelan, from the Salish word Tsi-Laan, meaning deep water.
That same evening, I saw Irish again who met up with his hiker friend, Dudders. They hiked the PCT together in 2017 and were now hiking SOBO. I enjoyed their company together with Crisco. Tahlia and Strider later joined us too. It was a lovely evening.
Day 3: Leaving Stehekin as ... Cinnamon!
The next morning, the shuttle bus took us back to trail around 8 PM. I hardly managed to get up on time and pack up - and frankly, I still suck at waking up early. Irish and Dudders were on the bus too and happy that I made it after all! 10minutes later, the bus stopped at the bakery. That's right, THE bakery of Stehekin! It really lives up to its reputation. The staff is so friendly and the food is unforgettable. In particular, the pizza slices, blueberry muffins, and their world-famous cinnamon buns were fantastic. I shared those with Irish and Dudders, who in turn rewarded me with my trailname: Cinnamon! I couldn't be happier.
Yep, this is me from now on! Yummy :)
Thanks for reading!