Great Divide Trail Thruhike | Section A - Trail Report
The Great Divide Trail - Section A: Trail Report
A Rocky Mountains Timelapse
Start: Monument at the Canada/U.S. border in Waterton Lakes National Park, AB
End: Coleman, AB
Distance: ~150 km / 91 miles
Elevation Gain: ~ 5.600 m / 18.370 ft
Alternates: Rowe Alternate, Barnaby Alternate, Lynx Creek Alternate
Keywords: Windy - lots of lakes - well-maintained trail - social
Section A of the Great Divide Trail (Source: FarOut).
Day 0: Thumbs up: We’re going to Waterton!
Not our best sign… The marker was out of ink!
After leaving the car in Calgary, trail angel Melissa dropped us off in High River, from where we hitchhiked to Waterton National Park.
Trail Angels on the Great Divide Trail
Yes, you read that correctly: There are trail angels on the GDT! Far and few between, because of the remoteness of the trail, so go and connect with them on the GDT Trail Angel Facebook page!
Our final hitchhike took us all the way to the heart of the park. There, Waterton Lake invited us for a swim. In the Tamarack outdoor store, we bought an emergency blanket for its double use as a ground sheet). After our little shopping spree, we headed for the park’s campground. The park rangers know about Great Divide Trail hikers and save some camping spots for late-arriving hikers like ourselves. Gratefully, we paid 11 CAD for a campsite and had a nice, hot shower in the washrooms (Canadian for toilet).
Day 1: Waterton Town - monument - Alderson Lake (19 km)
The first days on the GDT (Source: FarOut)
We woke up to greet a misty and magical morning. The first leg of the hike would be 6 km to the Canada/U.S.-border, where we would tag the monument and then simply turn around. A pleasant, well-defined trail along Upper Waterton Lakes brought us to the border.
The border monument
Accompanied by ripe, red thimbleberries and tourist boats, we found the border monument, existing of 1 metal and 1 stone pillar.
Standing on the dock, we witnessed two countries collide into one. The lake, ignorant of any borders, is neatly divided into Waterton National Park and Glacier National Park, the world’s first International Peace Parks. In nature, borders seem even more ludicrous. Ryan said his goodbyes to his country of stripes and stars and we started walking North on the Great Divide Trail.
Walking back, we met fellow thru-hiker, Rudy, also known by his trail name Chef. He makes beautiful videos of the trails he hikes. You can find his videos on Youtube.
The start of the Great Divide Trail can be pretty crowded. That is because Waterton town is accessible by car. Many people gather there to paddleboard, eat ice cream, or watch wildlife. Of course, we too joined the party, went for a swim, and ate some good poutine. When we finally left the pleasures of town behind to continue hiking the Great Divide Trail, we passed by the beautiful Cameron Falls.
Reenactment of Baby Simba in The Lion King.
Further away from town, uphill, the crowds soon thinned out. We walked through fireweed and half-burned trees until we reached our destination for the day. However, expecting a full campground, Alderson Lakes was entirely ours that night. Odd, since we booked the last camping permit… Turns out that empty campgrounds would be a repeating pattern in the parks.
Day 2: Alderson Lake - Akamina Campground (15 km)
The first night on the trail was a rather exciting one: My sleeping pad had a hole in it! We fixed it up with a Therm-A-Rest repair patch - lucky for me, Ryan carries a bag full of Gorilla Tape, repair patches, Super Glue, and other useful knick-knacks.
The beautifully maintained trail continued and climbed up to the lower and upper Carthew Lakes. We spotted our very first Common Loons on the Great Divide Trail. They really are fond of large alpine lakes. Blue, pristine lakes and windy weather: Waterton Lakes in a nutshell.
We met many other hikers that day, amongst them Jeff, who was section hiking the Great Divide Trail with a harmonica. He was very knowledgeable about the Great Divide Trail and a proud familyman.
After a refreshing dive into Cameron Lake with Jeff and Chef, we made our way to Akamina campground. This time, it was a full house!
Bear lockers and wooden picnic tables accommodated all GDT hikers and we spent a lovely evening, chatting, eating, and journaling.
A grizzly youngster even tried to join the party, before making his way up the hill and beyond.
Day 3: Akamina Campground - Lone Lake Campground (20 km)
Today, a serious decision lay in front of us: To Rowe Alternate or not to Rowe Alternate? We had heard many frightening stories of this unmaintained cross-country adventure, but we learned from the GDT webinars that it was a detour worthwhile. The only question remained: Are we ready to face the windy, challenging ridge walk? “Oh shoot, we’re on the Great Divide Trail, that’s what we’re here to do!” we exclaimed and started scrambling up the hill.
After a 3-hour heavy climb, we made it to the top of the ridge. But right before we could seal our victory, we were B-L-O-W-N away by the wind! Having no shelter whatsoever, we were forced into rain gear, gloves, hats, and sunglasses. We looked like Neo and Trinity from the Matrix and had to fight for every step we took. After 2 km, we decided to take the blue pill and bail!
Scrambling down
But adventure time was far from over! To get off the ridge, a snow cornice and a super steep, long scramble down awaited us. We stumbled, cross-country style, down the mountain slope to Rowe Lake. There, Ryan taught me how to “ski “ down gravel slopes, without skies, that is…
It was past noon by that time and we still had some ways to go. Back on the official Great Divide Trail, we climbed to Lineham Ridge, a pretty spectacular viewpoint. Once we turned around the corner, the wind chased us down the trail pretty quickly. The rest of the afternoon, we waded through scorched forests and grave burn scars. We had a permit for Twin Lakes, but after our windy and rather lengthy escapade, our tired feet could carry us no longer. At dusk, we set up camp at Lone Lake instead and enjoyed the silence.
The bright side of burns
Burn areas are fertile grounds for fireweed and new grasses, making room for butterfly and insect families. Every down has an up...
Day 4: Lone Lake Campground - Jutland Creek (20 km)
The next morning, Ryan and I slept in until 7:30 - yikes! We never were early birds, and getting up usually involves a lot of snoozing and coffee. Our morning eventually evolved into a heart-warming and honest conversation with fellow hikers Lynnie and Sophie. Mother and daughter, exploring their strong connection and shared admiration of the natural world around them.
Sophie spoke of the abundance of flowers on the Great Divide Trail, and it couldn’t be more true. Day four absolutely spoiled us with flower-filled fields, the exquisite perfume of newly-sprung buds and bees buzzing around them.
We met the first horse lords on trail, too! A family of four was on their way to Lone Lake Cabin. Our respect for equestrians - or horse lords - yes, we listened to LOTR audiobooks - increased with tenfold during this journey. It has become somewhat of a dream of our own. One day!
Our lunch spot was at Twin Lakes, where Ryan had a cold swim session. The weather soon turned and we prepared for the worst. We climbed a ridge and left Waterton Lakes National Park behind us. In the distance, big black smoke plumbs rose up and we could smell the wildfire. Pretty scary to experience a fire this way, makes you think of the scale of everything.
The smoke turned orange-red…
and soon, every notion of a horizon was wiped out. So we hiked on, into the void. I wasn’t comfortable, but Ryan reassured me of our safety. We entered the realm of Castle Provincial Park, where the sky cleared up and visibility returned. We camped at Jutland Creek with Lynnie, Sophie, and their friend Barb.
Day 5: Jutland Creek - Grizzly Lake (16 km)
Calling for help looks like this!
Day four turned out to be quite interesting. Today was the day of the notorious La Coulotte Ridge and the even more infamous Barnaby alternate! Clueless of what lay ahead of us, we started our day over Scarpe Pass and along the steep ridge to the peak of La Coulotte. After two false summits and lots of cursing, we finally made it to the real deal! Mind you, this ridgeline is pretty exposed and does not have much water or room for mistakes. We hoisted ourselves onto the peak and signed the trail register. While recovering, don’t forget to look around you: There are sublime 360° mountain views.
Next up? That would be the Barnaby Alternate - the very word alone still gives me the chills. This alternate would prove to be a time-consuming, challenging, route-finding scramble. Luckily, thanks to the GDTA members, there are flags around the scariest bits.
I wrote the following excerpt in my diary:
“The alternate totally wiped me out. Following a game trail, sometimes fully disappearing, then popping up again after some time. Ridgewalking is what it was. Up and down the hill, up and down the next one - I lost count after a while. I still felt quite cheerful, but when we consulted the map and I saw that we barely managed 1 mile per hour, I broke down. Lesson learned: Some things take time and you cannot fight it. So don’t try.”
Alternates take time, patience, and some courage, too. This was something I heavily underestimated. But I am very grateful for the experience and now, I find myself a lot stronger, more capable, and knowledgeable in rough terrain.
Sliding down doesn’t always come easy.
We skied (read: tumbled) down the gravelly trail towards Grizzly Lake, home to of a pair of Loons and, according to multiple wooden constructions, the occasional bushcrafter. Barb, Sophie, and Lynnie came rolling into camp not soon after and they too slept on the shores of Grizzly Lake.
Day 6: Grizzly Lake - Lynx Creek (34 km)
Time for a big push today. We were ready to get off the ridge and back to the trail.
An early-morning deer encounter, one of many.
After one week, your trail legs start to show. They grow stronger, and your pace picks up. Hiking up and down is part of your every day now, and you start to get the hang of it.
Bighorn Sheep
The last part of the Barnaby Alternate holds some beautiful memories.
We bagged some incredible peaks with fun trail registers (Fireball!) and met a large family of Bighorn Sheep after getting lost and trying to find our way back. Every down has an up…
Finally, the last cairn was in sight and a long, exposed descent led us to the three Barnaby Lakes. We greeted many hikers and fishers, and considered having a swim but went for a small dip instead. All the way down into the valley we crossed a road - the first sign of “civilization” - and disappeared into the woodlands. I remember eating thimbleberries until our fingers turned red, and filling up fresh water at Suicide Creek - scary, intriguing name. With relative ease, we climbed the hill and made our way on the relatively new trail into the dusk.
Day 7: Lynx Creek - Coleman (30 km)
The last day of the first section took us through cow country. Lynx Creek Campground (self-registration, +/- 21 CAD) had more cows than people in it. We ended up hiking in a bicycle race, which was really fun, since A) we were not the only ones suffering in the heat and B) we were sometimes faster going uphill and C) we had our first trail magic! A friend of one participant handed us Cokes and cookies and we were unbelievably grateful - trail magic is rare in the remote Rockies.
The last 10 km or so are ATV country. All drivers were very polite and immediately slowed down for us. Hiking, however, felt slow. After what seemed like an eternity, especially without four wheels, the first houses of Crowsnest Pass popped up in sight. Finally, we staggered into Coleman’s Subway and devoured one footlong (Chicken Teriyaki) each. We checked into our Airbnb and watched “Pretty Woman” until we fell asleep.
Interested in our GDT Gear Lists?
Coleman & accomodation
Finding a place to sleep in Coleman shouldn’t be too hard. For B&Bs, there are Safe Haven (We do not know if they will be open in 2023) and Country Encounters. The Paddock Inn is also a hiker’s favorite.
Section A: Complete!
Thanks for reading! Feel free to leave any questions or comments.
Packlist for Great Divide Trail- 2022
Pack and Gear list for Great Divide Trail Thru hike
Hey y’all! Here’s our gear list for the Great Divide Trail. Feel free to shoot us any questions or comments you have. Happy trails!
Ryan’s Gear List:
Pack & Poles:
Pack: LiteAF Ultra 40L Curve Full Suspension
Trekking Poles: Black Diamond Distance Carbon Trekking Poles
Camera Bag: HMG Camera Pod (small), REI Trail 5 Waist Pack (w/ camera insert), Peak Design Capture Clip
Sleep:
Tent (carried by Ilse!): Zpacks Duplex
Quilt: Enlightened Equipment 20˚ Enigma
Sleeping Pad: Thermarest NeoAir XL
Pillow: Sea to Summit Aeros Premium Pillow
Food & Water:
Filter: Katadyn Be-free
Bottles: 1.5L Smart Water x2
Bladder (for filter): HydraPak 2L Seeker
Food Bag: LiteAF FLAT BOTTOM BEAR BAG (LARGE)
Pot: MLD 950 ml Titanium Pot
Spork: Sea-to-summit Alpha Light Long Spork
Stove: MSR Pocket Rocket 2
Lighter: Bic Mini
Electronics / Camera:
Phone: iPhone 12mini
Headphones: Apple AirPods Pro
Watch: Garmin Fenix 6X
“Computer:” iPad Air (gen4) w/ apple pencil; 2x SSD’s, cables, SD card reader dongle
Camera: Sony A7C + Rocket Blower, lens cloths, 3x 128GB SD Cards, Peak Designs Capture Clip
Lenses: Sony 20mm 1.8G, Sony 50mm 2.5G, Tamron 70-180mm 2.8
Microphone: Rode VideoMic NTG
Tripod: Job Gorilla Pod Pro 3k
Battery Bank: Anker PowerCore Essential 20000 PD (18W)
Chargers: Anker USB-C Nano (20W) x3; charging cables (iPhone, micro, USB-C x2, Garmin)
Headlamp: Petzl Tikka w/ core rechargeable battery
Clothes:
Shorts: Nike Challenger Running Shorts (w/ pockets!)
Shoes: Salomon X Ultra 3 Mid GTX
Shirt: Synthetic T-shirt
Rain Jacket: Outdoor Research Helium
Puffy: Enlightened Equipment Torrid Vest (7D)
Wind Pants: Enlightened Equipment Copperfield Wind Pants
Socks: 3x Darn Tough
Hoodie: Sky Goat CAMP hoodie
Base Layer Pant: Patagonia lightweight
Hat: Buff (many purpose!)
Sun Sleeves: REI
Misc:
Hygiene: Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, sunscreen, body glide, chapstick, TP
Shovel: Duece of Spades
Knife: Swiss Army Classic
Bear: Bear Spray, 3mm Accessory Cord (bear hangs)
First Aid / Repair: Gorilla Tape (~3m), Tenacious Tape, Patch kit (Sleeping Pad), Ibuprofen, Gauze / Bandages,
Ilse’s Gear List
Pack & Poles:
Pack: Osprey Eja 48
Trekking poles: Black Diamond Trail Ergo Cork
Fanny Pack: Decathlon
Sleep:
Tent: Zpacks Duplex (carried by me :) )
Sleeping Bag: Western Mountaineering Versalite
Sleeping Pad: Therm-a-Rest Neoair XLite
Food & Water:
Filter: Sawyer Squeeze
Water bladder: Platypus
Food bag: Ursack
Pot: Toaks Titanium 750 ML
Spork: Sea-To-Summit Delta
Stove: MSR Pocket Rocket 2
Electronics
Phone: Samsung Galaxy A22
Headlamp: Petzl Actik Core
Battery Bank: Anker PowerCore Essential 20000 PD (18W)
Clothes:
Bandana: Buff
Shoes: Salewa Alp Trainer 2
Underwear: Icebreaker + Decathlon
Socks: Darn Tough 2x + Injinji
Bra: Patagonia Barely Everyday
Base layers: Icebreaker 200
Puffy: Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer
Rain Jacket: Outdoor Research Helium
Skirt: Patagonia Tech Skort
Shirt: Columbia Silver Ridge Long Sleeve
Hoodie: Skygoat USA
Misc:
Hygiene: Toilet paper, Deuce of Spades, Superglue, Ibuprofen, Kula Cloth, toothbrush + paste
Bear: Bear Spray, 3mm Accessory Cord (bear hangs)
Gloves + hat: Decathlon Fleece
Stories of the Oregon Coast Trail
Seaside Explorations
Oregon’s coast has so much beauty to offer. Visitors and residents gather here for excellent birdwatching, surfing, and relaxation. In September 2021, due to the California wildfires on the PCT, we headed down to the Oregon coast to escape the smoke… and take a walk! Winds in our hair, sand between our toes - and basically everywhere, because that’s what sand does - and camping on the beach: Here’s our story of the Oregon Coast Trail and tips to get you started.
What is the Oregon Coast Trail?
Maybe you have heard of California’s Lost Coast Trail or Washington’s North Coast Trail in Olympic National Park. Well, Oregon takes it one step further: The Oregon Coast Trail is a long-distance walk that entails the entire coastline of Oregon. The hike can be divided into 10 sections and the total distance is somewhere between 400 - 425 miles. In total, it takes about 1 month to complete this trek. Yep, this trail is something different.
Meaning…?
The Oregon Coast Trail isn’t just about following a trail: You walk close to the Pacific Ocean and its humid forests, bays, inlets, and rivers. So be prepared to get your feet wet! Walking through low waters, swimming, or hitching a boat ride - it’s all part of the game. Thumbs up! In our experience, most boaters and fishers are very helpful and will gladly help you over the water.
Side note:
This trail is not for the passionate wilderness purists. A lot of the trail is paved. You often end up road walking. In some sections, you cannot avoid US 101. This is not only boring but pretty dangerous too. The highway does not have much of a shoulder and we mostly ended up hitchhiking. Usually, it is only a couple of miles.
Side Note #2:
Oregon is currently busy tackling this problem! (Read about it here)
What is the Character of the Trail?
Life is Better at the Beach!
About half of the Oregon Coast Trail is beach. Hiking on sand… is pretty darn tough! Trekking poles may help on patches of wet sand but are pretty much useless. But walking the beaches can be a very relaxing experience. A fresh sea breeze, taking a nap in the dunes, looking at pretty shells… Can you feel your stress levels lowering yet?
Forest Trails and Dirt Roads
The Oregon Coast Trail passes by several incredible nature reserves and parks. Think of Ecola State Park, Fort Stevens State Park, and Cape Meares. These forest trails are relatively easy to moderate. They go up and down frequently, but the elevation gain is minimal. The forested sections take up about a quarter of the trek.
Ecola State Park
One of the absolute highlights is Ecola State Park, a fairylike forest full of ferns and towering trees. This is your chance to sleep in one of the majestic wooden cabins in the middle of the woods. There is even a restroom and picnic place. All in all, 10/10 - would sleep again!
One of the wooden cabins in Ecola State Park.
And some road walking
As previously mentioned, about a quarter of the Oregon Coast Trail involves road walking. If you’re lucky, the road takes you through town and you can score some ice cream. If not, you end up on the narrow 101 Highway.
Walking the line on a quiet backroad.
PS: The southbound shoulder is the wider one! We either walked that shoulder or hitchhiked.
Impressions of Nature Nearby the Sea
We bought a folding pocket guide for coastal birds so we could identify seagulls, snowy plovers and other seabirds. The Oregon coast is also the home of seals and sea lions - keep your eyes peeled and your ears wide open.
Left: Sea lions at the docks in Astoria. / Right: My first time spotting sea stars.
Furthermore, you find many more treasures washed ashore: Lost jellyfish, mussel beds, seaweeds of all sizes, and the most beautiful shells. Pure maritime magic.
Big chance that the paths will be muddy, wet, or at least moist. The Oregon Coast gets its fair share of rain. The humid conditions, however, create the most beautiful green forests, ferns, and breaking clouds. Life flourishes due to having the ocean nearby.
Resupply and other food options
The Oregon Coast Trail is no doubt a cultural experience: You pass one coastal town after another. From Oceanside to Seaside to Rockaway Beach: Town names are unmistakably associated with the sea.
Dine and wine at the OCT in one of the campgrounds.
That means you don’t have to pack much food. Along the road, there are plenty of shops, restaurants, and fisheries. We highly recommend visiting the latter: Not only will you support local businesses, but you taste seafood fresh from the ocean!
After eating cooked shells, crab, mussels, or shrimps, you throw the scales straight back into the sea. Part of the experience!
Tillamook is one of the towns that you might pass along the way. The famous cheese factory can be visited and we heard stories of free cheese samples and ice cream… Just saying!
What about potable water?
Ryan is filtering water with his Sawyer Squeeze.
Drinking from naturally-flowing water sources along the OCT is somewhat complicated. Some are mixed with salt water, others are possibly contained with oily run-off from the nearby Highway. So choose your water sources with care and keep an eye out for water spigots on campgrounds and town parks.
Lunchtime at the Pelican Brewery! No peanut butter wraps on this trail..
A safer option? Drink beer! Oregon is well-known for its good beer and the coastal towns are host to several microbreweries. We especially loved Pelican Brewery with its variety of IPAs and a good selection of food. Yum.
Is the Oregon Coast Trail easy to navigate?
You would think so, right? But nothing could be further from the truth. Sometimes, you come across private land, dangerous cliffs or the beach simply ends. This trail requires some guessing and checking. Online GPX-files and guidebooks can help you figure out the detours.
Don’t count on trail markers, as they are rather rare.
Best season to walk the OCT?
The trail’s conditions are pretty good throughout the summer months. It is possible, however, to hike the OCT in late spring (May - June) or early fall (September - October). It is important to keep river fords and tide cycles into account and plan your hike accordingly.
We hiked large parts of the trail in early September and had a real good time. The weather was gentle and there were few tourists. But whenever you decide to go, be prepared for rain and wind.
Any tip or recommendations?
Don’t forget to visit the lighthouses along the OCT! We particularly loved Cape Meares lighthouse and its surroundings.
Left: Cape Meares lighthouse / Right: The infamously cool Octopus Tree.
As mentioned before: Tide charts all the way! You will need them to know when to ford rivers or cross beaches. During high tide, we sometimes had to wait it out until the next day. Please take this seriously: Riptides and sneaker waves can easily knock you off your feet.
High tide is setting in: We just made the beach crossing in time!
What else? Be flexible. You never know where the next day will bring you - especially if you’re hiking this trail. And most of all: Enjoy your time out there. Take it one step at a time. Research has shown that the sea improves your well-being. Enjoy the ocean breeze!
For the Twilight fans!
The OCT crosses one of the Twilight filming locations! On Indian Beach, just next to Ecola State Park, Jacob told Bella about the Quileute’s legends of “the cold ones” in the first movie. Team Jacob!
Thanks for following our journey!
Pacific Crest Trail: Section K: Stehekin to Stevens Pass
PCT SOBO hike in Washington: Glacier Peak Wilderness
After a wholesome evening in Stehekin, section K of the PCT SOBO continues through Glacier Peak Wilderness, high up in the mountains. It was late July, the sky was baby blue, and the sunlight bathed the forests and creeks in different shades of gold. Because of the summer heat and elevation gain, it was a pretty rough, but rewarding stretch!
Day 3: First steps into the valley
Left: Irish making his way around a fallen tree. / Right: Welcome to Glacier Peak Wilderness!
Stuffed from the bakery goodies in Stehekin, we put our backpacks back on and said farewell to the friendly bus driver. Now it is all the way uphill! We gradually climb up to 678m (2255 ft).
Shiny new suspension bridges along the PCT.
After 12 miles of huffing and puffing, we camp alongside South Fork Agnes Creek, a wild glacial stream. The campsite used to be sketchy due to hazardous trees, so we paid extra attention to where we staked our tents.
Day 4: Climbing to the heart of Glacier Peak Wilderness
I woke up (late again) and enjoyed a hot coffee while reading on Farout (you know, the previous Guthooks) what today's hike would bring. It was very clear: Today's trail would be devoted to the ascend into Glacier Peak Wilderness. Climbing, climbing, and more climbing. Oh, and bushwhacking.
Crossing creeks via wooden bridges or logs.
The sun was our constant companion in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. Armed with sunglasses and a sunhat, I slowly moved forward. The landscape in the valley started to change with every step. After bushwhacking through brambles and bushes, the vegetation was now growing sparse and the creeks were getting colder.
By pure chance, I found Dudders' glasses in the middle of some serious bushwhacking and was happy to return them to him. Later that day, I would lose my watch while scrambling over a fallen tree. Surprisingly, Irish found it and returned it to me that same evening. Sometimes, as Luna Lovegood in Harry Potter says, "things we lose have a way of coming back to us in the end... If not always in a way we expect."
Blowdown trees: Thank you trail crew!
The afternoon is spent walking in the woods again. A sky-high, old forest full of towering trees. Many of those giants seem to have succumbed to gravity. Fallen trees form huge obstacles and I wriggle myself under or push myself over the tree. It feels like a true jungle workout! Later on, we heard that the PCT trail crews put all their time and effort into clearing these blowdowns. Some trees are colossal and I can only imagine the effort it takes to clear them from the trail. I salute these people!
Blowdowns feel like forest gymnastics!
SOBO Hikers: Birds of a feather flock together
I set up camp at 5 pm and was soon joined by Irish and Dudders. Irish taught me to camp away from the trail, as animals use trail tracks too. He too shows me to pour out snacks in one's hand. Trail hygiene is somewhat primitive, so it is better not to touch each other's food. I am grateful for the knowledge he shares with me and simply happy with my two trail buddies. I am 25 years old, Irish is 50-ish and Dudders 73. Three different generations, one beautiful connection.
Cougar alarm
That night, we were awakened by someone entering camp. It is a rattled hiker from Seattle who was stalked by a cougar not far from our camp. She stayed with us for the night. During twilight hours and nighttime, cougars are most active.
Day 5: Alpine enchantment on the PCT
Today was all about flowers, colours, clouds,... An abundance of life. I am still spellbound just thinking about it. The world feels very different up there.
Flower paradise.
Not only the ripening berries, but also the first NOBOs start to show up! From then on, I would meet a handful, or more, thruhikers and sectionhikers every day. Conversations were funny, genuine and kept me going with a smile on my face. Plus I made other friends too..
Left: Blacktail deer saying hi! / Right: Into the Glacier Peak territory.
This day was my first 20-mile day as a PCT SOBO hiker. I had my intentions set on the Dolly Vista camp spot - gorgeous pit toilet - and was happy to reach it. The end of the day was a +2000 feet climb in less than 3 miles. It was painful, but rewarding. Washington in a nutshell!
I bathed my feet in the icy-cold water while swatting mosquitos and drinking hot cacao. Time for bed now.
Day 6: Hiking up and down with a hint of bear spray
Started hiking at 5700 feet, then following switchbacks downhill to 3200, and eventually climbing back to 5400 feet. All in less than 10 miles. Yep, this is Washington for sure!
Mica Lake (5400 feet) was the place where my friend Stitches had an injury that - wait for it - left him with stitches in his forehead. I mentally sent him some support and hoped to see him soon back on trail.
Left & middle: Yummy water sources. / Right: Branden's walking stick.
After the final climb, the trail took me past many seasonal mountain streams and flower fields. I drank from every creek and waterfall. The Washington water tasted SO good! :)
26 miles in, I decided to call it a day. Unfortunately, that night, I accidentally showered myself with bear spray. I had to scoop ice in Ziploc bags and sleep with my aching hands tucked in those bags. Quite the adventure indeed :-)
Day 7: From Portal Peak to Kodak Peak ❤️
With bags under my eyes and burning, red hands, I dragged myself to Portal Peak, where I met some nice climbers who took my picture.
After chatting for a while, we said our goodbyes. I waved to White mountain and made way for Kodak Peak. Is it a coincidence that I would meet fellow SOBO hiker Kodak that same day, on that exact location? ❤️
We took a break in lake Sally Ann and talked the day away. The landscape was evergreen. Pear Lake was where we camped. We had a lovely evening swim, chatted with fellow hikers, and fell asleep under the sound of buzzing mosquitos. It is the very end of July and they are more awake than ever.
Day 8: Hitchhiking from the PCT to Skykomish
After 10 miles of hiking, we arrive at Stevens Pass and hitchhike west to Skykomish. Population: 121.
Skykomish has a laundry (hurray), a pub (double hurray!), and the Cascadia Inn, a hiker-friendly hotel owned by the major himself! Beer, town food, a shower, and a bed - I am a happy woman.
Thanks for reading!
Pacific Crest Trail - Section K: Rainy Pass to Stehekin (part 1)
My first steps on the PCT as a SOBO hiker.
Rainy Pass had its own mini-PCT-monument.
Day 1: Better start walking!
Saturday, July 24th is D-day! I am dropped off by trail angel Madd Baker at Rainy Pass, 61 miles from the Canadian border. As we speak, the Cedar Creek fire is still burning and I was advised to start my PCT SOBO hike from Rainy Pass. Remembering my promise to my mother to make wise decisions, I'm headed for Rainy Pass. I'll be back for you, northern terminus!
Nothing ever goes as planned. And that's totally fine!
After all the disappointments in 2020 (aka canceled NOBO permit due to Covid), I was just very grateful to be on trail. Whether northbound, southbound, eastbound or whatever - I was there! I fought hard for my dream to come true and it was coming true. I looked at my two feet and watched them slowly move forward. Now it's time to walk!
Some of the first PCT trail markers I encountered on trail.
Bear bravery? ... Not really :)
My moment of bravery and self-confidence was short lived, when after only 15 minutes I encountered my first black bear. Crunching on the leaves of a fallen tree, looking for roots and early berries. Starstruck. Bears truly are beautiful animals. I just wasn't sure how to proceed. Not long after that came Irish. "Don't you worry, they won't hurt you! Just walk on!" Following the footsteps of this brave Irishman, I cautiously proceeded. My first day on trail, my first bear. How befitting!
Left: Bear claw marks on the right tree. / Right: My guess: the Eastern White pine cone.
I only walked 8 miles that day, stopping every now and then to pinch myself and see if this was real. And to catch my breath - I was struggling with the weight of my backpack. Every beginning is hard, and that is okay. I am always reminded of a quote of Murakami:
"Pain is inevitable. Suffering is optional."
I'd like to live by that.
Washington wilderness wonders
First impressions of the Washington wilderness? Only superlatives. So green, so lush! What a wild, bold, and brave terrain. I walked with a smile on my face every single day. My first campsitelearned was shared with Sofa Queen. I learnt about her excellent dental hygiene on trail - impressive! - and her incredible courage to carry a backpack that was even heavier than mine. The next morning, I was hoping to wake up at 6 AM, but it was 9 instead. Oh well!
Howard Lake, full of loud frogs and lily pads.
Hiking in my own fantasy world
The first couple of days I walked without earphones. Gradually, I enjoyed listening to some music or a podcast now and then. Some steep climbs got a little easier when Wilco was singing in my ear. Whenever I felt tired, I carried on listening to the adventures of Bilbo and Frodo in Middle Earth. I looked around and could well imagine their quest, sorrows, and aches. Not that I encountered any orcs or unfriendly trees, on the contrary: The trees were magnificent and the people were good-looking and gracious. ;-)
Day 2: A lovely time in Stehekin
My second day on trail started later than anticipated, but I was very excited. I would make way for Stehekin today! After a sunny and happy morning, I arrived around noon at the High Bridge. This quaint little spot includes a ranger cabin (home to the friendly ranger Stan), information signs, and picnic tables. That is where I met Tahlia and her dog Strider. All of us descended to drink from the swirling Stehekin River.
The aquamarine blue Stehekin River.
Together, the three of us took the shuttle bus to Stehekin (the schedule can be found on FarOut). Tahlia was meeting up with a friend who worked at The Garden, an organic produce farm. We decided to meet up later in town that evening. Since it was only my second night on the trail, I decided to free camp in a designated camping area in town.
Stehekin is accessible by boat, plane, or foot only. So, "town" literally means a post office, a general store, and a couple of chalets. It is a peaceful boaters' paradise.
Blue skies, blue water.
Swimming session in Lake Chelan
After setting up my tent, I escaped my sweaty clothes and took a refreshing swim in Lake Chelan. It was icy cold, but it felt so good! There were some families on boats enjoying the setting sun in the middle of the lake. Tahlia joined me for a swim, and later we had a beer with her friend from The Garden, the three of us looking out over the lake. It was then that I had my first wasp sting - that's what you get for drinking sweet cider! ;-)
Lake Chelan, from the Salish word Tsi-Laan, meaning deep water.
That same evening, I saw Irish again who met up with his hiker friend, Dudders. They hiked the PCT together in 2017 and were now hiking SOBO. I enjoyed their company together with Crisco. Tahlia and Strider later joined us too. It was a lovely evening.
Day 3: Leaving Stehekin as ... Cinnamon!
The next morning, the shuttle bus took us back to trail around 8 PM. I hardly managed to get up on time and pack up - and frankly, I still suck at waking up early. Irish and Dudders were on the bus too and happy that I made it after all! 10minutes later, the bus stopped at the bakery. That's right, THE bakery of Stehekin! It really lives up to its reputation. The staff is so friendly and the food is unforgettable. In particular, the pizza slices, blueberry muffins, and their world-famous cinnamon buns were fantastic. I shared those with Irish and Dudders, who in turn rewarded me with my trailname: Cinnamon! I couldn't be happier.
Yep, this is me from now on! Yummy :)
Thanks for reading!